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One of the most convivial choices in Karlovac, the Konoba Kostanjac near the Kupa river, just north of the historic centre, offers an authentic Dalmatian touch to the local gastronomic scene. Brodetto, octopus salad, squid, fresh sardines, cod broth, soparnik savoury pie with Swiss chard… you could be in Split but instead, you’re in north-central Croatia, a short drive from Zagreb. This friendly rustic tavern is also a main local purveyor of artisanal ales and prime mover in the annual Craft Beer Fest Karlovac.