Peškarija

Walk through an atmospheric stone passageway and up the steps to reach a terrace wedged against the hillside of the Old Town, with a couple of tables and benches set in greenery. To look at the water instead of the pink decor inside, sit in the glass-enclosed loggia in the back. Quality fish and meat options include standards and offbeat dishes such as fried shark, Dalmatian frogs’ legs in season and Mexican paella with chicken, veal and vegetables. Save space for the baked ice-cream in breadcrumbs.