Pizzeria Rustique

Despite the name, there are more than pizzas here – though, with 16 varieties to choose from in three different sizes, plus a DIY option, there’s plenty of scope there. Classic grilled meats not only cover the Balkan favourites of čevapčići and pljeskavica, but stuffed pork, and the hulking Plata Rustique, the kind of thing that would feature on one of those see-how-much-we-can-eat American TV shows. Order a day or so in advance, and you can even have the capable kitchen staff here prepare you and your dining companion veal, lamb or octopus ispod peke, slow-braised under a cooking bell surrounded by hot embers. All takes place in a pretty wooden chalet on an otherwise empty road that follows the other side of the Kupa from town – it’s mainly regulars only.