Stari Podrum

One of those places that’s highly regarded by locals and well worth driving a few extra kilometres to find, Stari Podrim is situated in an old red-brick distillery in Momjan, a wine-producing village in Istria’s far north-eastern corner. The food is as off-the-beaten-track as the location, with an informal follow-the-staff-suggestions menu that changes seasonally according to what’s fresh. Expect good home cooking of a type that has falling off the touristy coastal menus, with home-made pastas, soups and stews garnished with truffles, asparagus and other regional riches. Be sure to stay for the seasonal-fruit desserts, to be washed down with the local Muscat.