The Dolac market behind the main square is where you’ll find the best dairy produce from the region, in its own area of the covered hall. Here locals buy sir i vrhnje, cream cheese, sold by the plastic cup and dispensed into their own bowl or bag. Sprinkled with salt and paprika, embellished with diced onions and accompanied by kružnjak cornbread and spots of špek ham or slices of dried sausage, it comprises the definitive Zagreb staple. The typical producer is a friendly woman of a certain age: the kumica. A cross between ‘trader’ and ‘godmother’, the kumica is a much-loved figure. Shoppers have their own favourite; a statue stands to one at the market entrance.
While Zagreb’s gastronomic offerings are now of a standard fitting for any European capital, the city’s culinary traditions are as strong as ever. Today the international business community meets in high-quality sushi bars or while local working folk still tuck into cheap, homely lunches. Here we pick out the top five food experiences around town.
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