Trattoria Riva's

Having made his culinary reputation at the upmarket Le Mandrać in Volosko, creative chef Deniz Zembo has set out to bring fresh energy to Rijeka's well-established konoba culture of good honest cooking at a fair price. Trattoria Riva's is the result, a checked-tablecloth bistro on Rijeka's waterfront boulevard, serving everything from cheap staples like čevapćići and breaded squid to exquisitely grilled fish and steaks. Signature dishes include the škura pogača or black pie – squid and other fishy bits stuffed inside a pasty made from black, squid-ink-coloured dough. Zembo is also a big fan of beef from the big-hormed boškarin cattle of Istria, using it to make both goulash and gourmet minced-beef pljeskavice. Pizzas will keep the kids happy, and there's free Wi-fi, too.