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Step off crowded Decumanus, down a few steps, and into a cool, cavernous old stone room, charmingly cluttered with antiques and old shipping paraphernalia. The garden behind, in a secluded courtyard, is equally attractive. The speciality is the Istrian version of ‘surf and turf’: seafood and truffles. Surf includes calamari, octopus salad and fresh fish, and less common varieties like ray and sole. Truffles can be had in pasta or as part of various starters such as sheep’s cheese or carpaccio. You can usually manage to find a few interesting daily specials.