Karlovac has had a market almost since the city’s foundation in the late 1500s, although for the best part of four centuries, it was set up on the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. In 1971, a new market building was opened south-west of the city centre, on Trg Hrvatskih Branitelja. With open and roofed areas, this expansive space remains in place, with solar panels a more recent addition. Produce tends to originate locally – there are usually six types of apple, for example, among fruit in season, all kinds of greens and other vegetables. Look out for the fresh, unprocessed milk and the snacks of čvarci, pork crackling.