Arranged around a series of small bays, the village of Lumbarda, 6km from Korčula town, is thought to be the oldest settlement on the island. A stone inscription dating from the 4th century BC (a replica of which can be seen in Korčula Town Museum) refers to an ancient Greek colony at Lumbarda – however no evidence of a Greek city has ever been found here, suggesting that the Greeks never put down firm roots on Korčula. However the Greek presence lives on in the name of the local wine, Grk, a unique dry white that flourishes in the sandy soil of Lumbarda but which can’t be grown successfully anywhere else.
Where to go in Lumbarda..
Two kilometres southeast of Korčula town centre, the pudding-shaped St Anthony's Hill looms over the road to Lumbarda. An alley lined with cypress leads to a 102-step stairway that scales the hill. At the summit is a small chapel dedicated to St Anthony, and thrilling views of Korčula's surroundings, including the islets and the more distant Orebić shore.
A short drive from Korcula Town towards Lumbarda, Maslina is a no-frills, honest local eatery. Homemade cheese, gnocchi and cakes are supported by pasticada (local meat stew), makaruni pasta, squid and chicken. Somewhere to escape the crowds or the heat on the shaded terrace.
Set in the 16th-century Gabrielis palace, this small but highly entertaining museum proudly unveiled its new English-language labelling in 2013. Pride of place on the ground floor belongs to ceramics dredged up from ancient Greek and Roman shipwrecks. There is also a replica of a fourth-century Greek tablet from Lumbarda, announcing the establishment of a Greek colony on the island. Among the knick-knacks upstairs are furnishings through the ages, photographs of World War II Partisans, and a reconstruction of a traditional Korčulan kitchen on the top floor – in the old days, it was common for kitchens to be situated up here in the attic.