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Old Town in Edinburgh
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Edinburgh Old Town guide: what to do and where to eat and drink

Discover all the best restaurants, bars and things to do in Edinburgh’s Old Town

Arusa Qureshi
Amy Houghton
Edited by
Arusa Qureshi
&
Amy Houghton
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Ask anyone who's been – there’s something truly magical about Edinburgh. And with its cultural treasures, hidden closes, Gothic architecture and an actual volcano (albeit extinct), the city’s original medieval Old Town is an integral part of the Scottish capital’s unique charm.

Though relatively compact, Old Town is home to some of Edinburgh’s most significant landmarks and best things to do. You’ve got the prominent grandeur of Edinburgh Castle which guards over the city and faces down the slope of the famous Royal Mile. Not far away, there’s the National Museum of Scotland, St Giles Cathedral and a curious labyrinth of spooky underground chambers and secret passages that reveal stories from the city’s lesser known history. It’s no wonder this area has been designated an official UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

And that’s not to mention the endless options of sleek dining spaces, gorgeous brunch spots, salt-of-the-earth pubs and strip of bars and clubs down Cowgate.

We don’t want keep you much longer – there’s a whole plethora of sites awaiting your exploration. So, here’s our ultimate guide to Edinburgh’s Old Town.

RECOMMENDED: Full guide to the best things to do in Edinburgh

Best things to do in Edinburgh’s Old Town

  • Museums

From the geology to the industrial era, from ancient people to the twentieth century, from the basement to the fabulous Balcony Café, the National Museum of Scotland narrates the story of the country. There are artefacts that take your breath away, that make you squirm and interactive exhibits that will bring out your competitive side. The new part of the museum dates to 1998; the older part adjacent was completed in 1888 but was substantially refurbished and reopened as from 2011. Together they’re a must-see.

  • Attractions
  • Historic buildings and sites

With nearly a millennium of recorded history under its belt, a span of human occupation that probably stretches as far as the Bronze Age, a beautifully simple twelfth-century chapel, the hugely affecting Scottish National War Memorial, the National War Museum, the Honours of Scotland and much more besides, Edinburgh Castle is a world-class attraction. With so much inside its ancient walls, you’ll no doubt find something here to engage your interest.

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  • Attractions

It’s a talking shop for politicians. So why bother visiting? The bold design by the late Enric Miralles is controversial and construction may have gone way over time and budget, but the interior of the building is remarkable. In September 2014 nearly 45 percent of Scots felt that this parliament was perfectly sufficient for Scotland’s needs, Westminster being surplus to requirements. If the UK breaks up in your lifetime, this place will have played a key part.

  • Attractions
  • Religious buildings and sites

With medieval roots, much subsequent refurbishment and a prominent role in some key events of Scottish history, St Giles is a rewarding place to wander. Given the window it affords on the Calvinist superstructure of Scotland’s soul – if such a confection can be said to exist – then visiting the Mother Church of Presbyterianism is positively voyeuristic.

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  • Clubs

With its medieval city-on-a-hill status, the Old Town has lots of layers, basements, cellars and bridge arches that have been built over and hidden. Sneaky Pete’s takes advantage of this aspect of the city’s fabric to provide a club and gig venue that may be small in size but is big in atmosphere. Here you might be watching a solo act with an acoustic guitar, or dancing to techno until 3am.

  • Museums

Surgeons’ Hall is home to the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh, an organisation founded more than 500 years ago. Within the complex of buildings here you find collections of surgical pathology material, instruments, displays on radiology, a dental collection and more. In truth though, it’s the gruesome pickled bits of people in jars that the public comes to see.

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The Bongo Club
  • Nightlife

Owned by arts charity Out of the Blue, the Bongo serves as a gig venue, club venue and general arts centre. You can find anything and everything on the premises from pop-up food and crafts markets to dubstep, grime, jungle and reggae nights later on that continue until the wee hours. The Bongo is a well-established fixture on the Edinburgh alternative culture scene, based at its current Cowgate premises since 2013.

Cafés and restaurants in the Old Town

  • Restaurants
  • Cafés

The USP at this Indian venue near the University of Edinburgh is small dishes, various flavours and sharing. Why should a pari of dining partners struggle through two rich, protein-heavy curries for example – and rice and bread – when they could have three or four smaller dishes, sample them all, then just order more if they feel like it? Simple, clever, popular.

  • Restaurants

Aside from the great name, there’s plenty to like about Lovecrumbs. This delightful café embraces not only the sweet stuff, but savoury options like sausage rolls and hearty sandwiches too. The ever-changing cake options are the real highlight though, with flavours like chocolate and lavender and raspberry and rose, plus plenty of teas, coffees and rather tasty hot chocolate.

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  • Restaurants

Andrew Radford is an Edinburgh restaurant legend; when he opened the Atrium more than 20 years ago it set a new benchmark for contemporary fine dining in the capital. That venue ran its course but, after some intermediary ventures, he popped up again with Timberyard in 2012. Based at an actual old timber yard, the decor is artfully distressed while the food is plain wonderful. A typical main here would be venison with elderberry, velvet bolete, cabbage, celeriac and salsify.

  • Restaurants

After almost 20 years in business, this bustling bistro remains a great space, split over two sections, with a pared-down, minimalist look. The outrageously well-priced lunch menu plays its part – it’s possible to dine well in the afternoon and have change from a tenner. The food covers modern bistro classics, service is swift and usually cheerful. Gorgeous views of the castle also make this one a real gem. 

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  • Restaurants

Founder and chef Paul Wedgwood’s plan was simple: create an unpretentious space where imagination, ingredients and great cooking are at the fore. Since opening in 2007, he’s achieved just that. There’s a warm, relaxed atmosphere here, from the contemporary decor to the modern Scottish menu. The dinner menu changes monthly standouts in the past have included  lobster thermidor creme brulee and sticky toffee pudding with Bunnahabhain whisky butterscotch.

  • Restaurants
  • Delis

Just two minutes from the bustling Royal Mile, Edinburgh Larder sells seasonal, locally sourced and tasty food, with its breakfast menu available until 3pm and featuring all the classics like eggs benedict, porridge and hash browns. If you’re in a bit later, try the Taste of Scotland Plate, which comes with Belhaven cold smoked salmon and hot smoked salmon, smoked trout pâté, granary bread, Clava organic brie, salad and loads more.

 

Bars and pubs in the Old Town

  • Bars and pubs
  • Cocktail bars

This venue has shelves of vinyl records, neon lights, a 1970s pub carpet, soft toys, bunting on the ceiling and every nook stuffed with pot plants, standard lamps and more. It would be easy to write it off as just another wacky student bar – the University of Edinburgh’s Bristo Square buildings are directly opposite – but the vegetarian soul food menu, eclectic events calendar and fun cocktail list make it a far more attractive proposition.

 

  • Bars and pubs

Not so much a pub as a manifestation from another universe that drifts in from time to time and opens its door at random. Young people come in, carry items up the stairs, then never come down again. The barmaid is ethereal. There is hardly any choice of beer. Crisps are sometimes free. This is the type of pub you visit once then dream about years later, wondering if it ever existed at all. If you drop by for a pint, it will probably be closed.

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  • Bars and pubs

Slap bang in the middle of tourist country, Whiski is a traditionally-styled bar, popular with visitors to Edinburgh who fancy a steak and ale pie and a pint of Scottish beer. It offers more than that, however, as its whisky list is one of the city’s very best, easily good enough to interest serious aficionados. There is a sister venue on North Bank Street, the Whiski Rooms, with a shop, tasting room, bar and more formal restaurant. This High Street venue is certainly the more relaxed and pub-like of the two.

  • Bars and pubs

A 2016 debutante in the heart of the Old Town, Salt Horse is dual-purpose beer shop and bar with the business very much on message in terms of artisan food and drink. The bar space is not the biggest but it has the maximum number of small tables squeezed in, simple ddcor, lots of beer in bottles and cans, and a dozen rotating keg lines featuring breweries like Pilot of Leith, Kernel of London, Moor of Bristol, Thornbridge from Derbyshire and more. These are served in schooners (two-thirds of a pint) as is customary these days but with some beers reaching 7 percent abv and above, that’s no bad thing.

 

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  • Bars and pubs

If a bar has a genuine commitment to top-quality beer and fine single malt whisky, a decent range of both and staff with the ability to explain the products to the clientele then that bar has given itself every chance to thrive. The Bow Bar thrives. It should probably be used as an example in business studies courses: how to do things properly.

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