Edinburgh Old Town guide: what to do and where to eat and drink

The USP at this Indian venue near the University of Edinburgh is small dishes, various flavours and sharing. Why should a pari of dining partners struggle through two rich, protein-heavy curries for example – and rice and bread – when they could have three or four smaller dishes, sample them all, then just order more if they feel like it? Simple, clever, popular.

Andrew Radford is an Edinburgh restaurant legend; when he opened the Atrium more than 20 years ago it set a new benchmark for contemporary fine dining in the capital. That venue ran its course but, after some intermediary ventures, he popped up again with Timberyard in 2012. Based at an actual old timber yard, the decor is artfully distressed while the food is plain wonderful. A typical main here would be venison with elderberry, velvet bolete, cabbage, celeriac and salsify.

After almost 20 years in business, this bustling bistro remains a great space, split over two sections, with a pared-down, minimalist look. The outrageously well-priced lunch menu plays its part – it’s possible to dine well in the afternoon and have change from a tenner. The food covers modern bistro classics, service is swift and usually cheerful. Gorgeous views of the castle also make this one a real gem. 

Founder and chef Paul Wedgwood’s plan was simple: create an unpretentious space where imagination, ingredients and great cooking are at the fore. Since opening in 2007, he’s achieved just that. There’s a warm, relaxed atmosphere here, from the contemporary decor to the modern Scottish menu. The dinner menu changes monthly standouts in the past have included  lobster thermidor creme brulee and sticky toffee pudding with Bunnahabhain whisky butterscotch.

Just two minutes from the bustling Royal Mile, Edinburgh Larder sells seasonal, locally sourced and tasty food, with its breakfast menu available until 3pm and featuring all the classics like eggs benedict, porridge and hash browns. If you’re in a bit later, try the Taste of Scotland Plate, which comes with Belhaven cold smoked salmon and hot smoked salmon, smoked trout pâté, granary bread, Clava organic brie, salad and loads more.

This venue has shelves of vinyl records, neon lights, a 1970s pub carpet, soft toys, bunting on the ceiling and every nook stuffed with pot plants, standard lamps and more. It would be easy to write it off as just another wacky student bar – the University of Edinburgh’s Bristo Square buildings are directly opposite – but the vegetarian soul food menu, eclectic events calendar and fun cocktail list make it a far more attractive proposition.

Not so much a pub as a manifestation from another universe that drifts in from time to time and opens its door at random. Young people come in, carry items up the stairs, then never come down again. The barmaid is ethereal. There is hardly any choice of beer. Crisps are sometimes free. This is the type of pub you visit once then dream about years later, wondering if it ever existed at all. If you drop by for a pint, it will probably be closed.

Slap bang in the middle of tourist country, Whiski is a traditionally-styled bar, popular with visitors to Edinburgh who fancy a steak and ale pie and a pint of Scottish beer. It offers more than that, however, as its whisky list is one of the city’s very best, easily good enough to interest serious aficionados. There is a sister venue on North Bank Street, the Whiski Rooms, with a shop, tasting room, bar and more formal restaurant. This High Street venue is certainly the more relaxed and pub-like of the two.

A 2016 debutante in the heart of the Old Town, Salt Horse is dual-purpose beer shop and bar with the business very much on message in terms of artisan food and drink. The bar space is not the biggest but it has the maximum number of small tables squeezed in, simple ddcor, lots of beer in bottles and cans, and a dozen rotating keg lines featuring breweries like Pilot of Leith, Kernel of London, Moor of Bristol, Thornbridge from Derbyshire and more. These are served in schooners (two-thirds of a pint) as is customary these days but with some beers reaching 7 percent abv and above, that’s no bad thing.

If a bar has a genuine commitment to top-quality beer and fine single malt whisky, a decent range of both and staff with the ability to explain the products to the clientele then that bar has given itself every chance to thrive. The Bow Bar thrives. It should probably be used as an example in business studies courses: how to do things properly.