A weekend in the eastern Pyrenees

At Fonda Xesc they work with seasonal ingredients to create Catalan dishes. The chef, Francesc, started learning his trade with his mother at this 'fonda' (a traditional Catalan inn and restaurant), and some of the dishes they cooked together back then are still on the menu, 25 years later, such as the delicious rabbit with langoustines. Such 'mar i muntanya' (surf and turf) creations are a house speciality - they also make pig's trotters with 'sobrassada' (spicy spreading sausage from Mallorca) and sea cucumbers, and peas and wild asparagus with fish of the day and the juices of roasted meat. When it comes to cooking, they have three basic tenets: minimal cooking, cooking to order, and simplicity. It's a formula that has been deserving of a Michelin star since 2009 and that's also applied to creations such as rice with spinach and truffle, artichokes with bacon, coriander and garlic, and, for dessert, dark chocolate with liquorice and eucalyptus (typical to the area).

Les Cols is the traditional country house ('masia') in Olot where the chef Fina Puigdevall was born and where, since 1990, she's created her own particular and renowned gastronomy. The setting is nothing less than a declaration of intent, because capturing the landscape and essence of the Garrotxa area is the starting point for Puigdevall's experimental cuisine. The dishes she creates constantly evolve and change, depending on the season and her imagination, but they also use certain local ingredients that never disappear from the menu. In fact, sometimes they're so local they come from the restaurant's own kitchen garden, based on the county's traditional vegetable gardens. Food items inextricably connected to this area include buckwheat, turnip, Santa Pau white beans and truffles, which are all omnipresent. 

Four generations have passed through the kitchen of Ca l'Enric since 1882, and in 2002, the prestigious Michelin Guide recognised the work done by the restaurant to update its cooking style. The people responsible for this change are the young Juncà siblings: the three are propronents of what's known as 'ingredient cuisine' ('cuina de producte'). They focus on the local lands and surroundings of the restaurant, which is located in the heart of the Garrotxa region of Catalonia, although they say their cooking is inspired more by forests than by the extinct volcanoes that populate the area. One of their set menus, 'Discover the Valley', works with just such local ingredients: wild mushrooms, truffle, game, eel, river trout, etc. Another winner is the 'Sotabosc', which brings together ingredients grown around the restaurant (veal, wild mushrooms, aromatic herbs, flowers, leaves, etc). Another of their unique set menus is the woodcock one, which includes soup, a rice dish, and woodcock that's been stewed and cooked on the grill with 'salmís' a sauce made with the bird's innards, foie and cognac.

At Carme 13 Pastisseria they make bread like in the good old days; when cakes and pastries were made without margarine, and bread was produced using a mother yeast and slow fermentation. They also use traditional recipes and local quality products. That's the essence of Carme 13, and might explain why, even though it didn't open so long ago, it's become a bit of a local hot spot as well as a must-visit for lovers of typical Catalan 'coca' cake, whether it's 'papa de coca', 'coca de forner' (baker's coca) or the addictive and delicious 'coca de sucre' (sugar coca). And if you're a fan of different kinds of flour, Carme 13 serves a variety of breads made from the likes of buckwheat, spelt and farro flour, with a different one each day of the week.

This is a place to try modern, regional cooking using dairy products that they make themselves. Try the selection of cheeses with tomato and vanilla jam, or the cod with light potato cream and Galician-style scallop. 

Menu: €40. Closed Tue and Wed.

Pla del Ro, s/n (Gorguja, Llívia). T. 972 14 62 79. www.laformatgeria.com

Are you looking for a place to take the family that's surrounded by mountains? Do you need to completely disconnect from everybody and everything? In the heart of the Camprodon valley you'll find Mas El Mariner, a stately home that dates from the 18th century, and that was converted first into a farmhouse and later a country house. It has four bedrooms, a barbecue, garden and private swimming pool.

In one of the most beautiful villages in the Camprodon valley, this hotel offers a welcoming family atmosphere and some 15 rooms as well as a restaurant serving home-made food. 

Half-board from €52 per person.

Camí d’Ulldeter, 1 (Setcases) T. 972 13 60 52. www.cantiranda.com

If you're looking to really get away from it all, the Girona part of the Pyrenees is an ideal spot to try. In the foothills of the range, for instance, is Mas de l'Om, located in the Bianya valley. It's a renovated 'masia' (country house) surrounded by fields, woods and a river; and is situated 850m above sea level. It has five bedrooms, a fireplace, heating, private swimming pool, an exterior veranda with a barbecue, and a horse stable. The area is completely idyllic and photogenic. Indeed make sure your mobile is well charged because it's impossible to go to Mas de l'Om and not take photos every two minutes.  

This hotel is modern and elegant, with 21 bedrooms, garden and heated outdoor pool, and located close to the interesting historical part of the town. The restaurant serves simple dishes in the evenings.

From €110 for a double room with breakfast.

C/ Cereja, 4 (Llívia). T. 972 14 62 06. www.hotelbernatdeso.com

Country house on the outskirts of Bagà, with six original bedrooms, an organic vegetable garden and livestock. 

From €70 per person for half board. 

Barri Terradellas, 10 (Bagà). T. 93 824 40 76. www.molidelcaso.es