Alfama is Lisbon at its most atmospheric: a maze of cobbled streets with colourful, laundry-draped houses and traditional fado music spilling out of tiny neighbourhood bars. Lisbon’s oldest district is also where you’ll find the third boutique hotel in the AlmaLusa group, overlooking the waterfront by Campo das Cebolas square. Surrounded by history, AlmaLusa Alfama offers a stylish, yet laid-back, base in which to explore it all, with a cosy café-restaurant serving Portuguese favourites.
Why stay at AlmaLusa Alfama?
If soulless marble lobbies aren’t your thing, you’ll love this boutique stay that’s authentically a part of Alfama’s story. Not only is it a few minutes’ walk from some of the city’s most historic sights, but the 25-room hotel itself is full of nods to its historic past. Dating back to the 12th century, it showcases elegant Pombaline architecture, with a canary-yellow façade wrapped around the Arco das Portas do Mar. Built during the Roman era to protect the city from Germanic tribes, this archway was once a vital entrance in the city’s defensive walls. With so much to see on its doorstep, start the day with a hearty breakfast, then head straight out to explore.
What are the rooms like at AlmaLusa Alfama?
As with the rest of the hotel, rooms at AlmaLusa Alfama are unfussy, but elegant, ranging from singles to deluxe suites. Overlooking the Tagus River, my cool-toned suite, with a lovely forest-painted feature wall, felt instantly welcoming. A marshmallow-like Queen bed with Portuguese cotton percale sheets had me wanting to jump straight in. The adjoining bathroom was small and functional, but had all the essentials and luxury, rosemary-scented Benamôr toiletries. (As a hotel guest you get a discount at the store next door if you take a liking to them..) A handy little guide of what to see and do in Lisbon and beyond was a nice touch, as was the complimentary water (both still and sparkling) that is refilled every day.
What is the food like at AlmaLusa Alfama?
Delfina Café, spilling out onto the pavement outside, is where breakfast is served each morning. The spread was generous with an array of local meats and cheeses, fruit, yoghurts, juices, fresh pastries, bread and a ‘cake of the day’ on offer. À la carte options are available too: choose how you like your eggs and sides including avocado or bacon.
Lunch and dinner is also available at the café, which focuses on Portuguese fare with international influences. There’s plenty to choose from, including a petiscos (Portuguese tapas) menu and a full menu of mains. I opted for a mini platter of local cheeses and melt-in-the-mouth codfish croquettes with cuttlefish ink and tomato chutney. A main of succulent Iberian pork wellington with grilled green asparagus also proved to be a good choice.
The second night of my stay, I dined at Delfina Cantina Portuguesa, in the sister hotel AlmaLusa Baixa/Chiado, which was only a ten-minute walk away. Hidden away in the corner of Municipal Square, the restaurant feels like the elevated big sister to Delfina Café. Our very attentive waiter promptly gave us his suggestions for the evening, which turned out to be hits. We ordered succulent roasted octopus on toast and sautéed prawns to start, which were both delicious. (In fact, I am still thinking about the rich, buttery tomato sauce of the prawns… I could have dipped bread in it all night.) Mains were also excellent: ‘Delfina’s codfish in the pan’ (creamy and rich), as well as grilled tuna steak with mustard sauce and mashed sweet potatoes. Dark chocolate mousse with a hint of sea salt and farófias (islands of meringue in custard – a traditional favourite) rounded off the meal nicely. Normally I avoid hotel restaurants, preferring to venture out to explore the city’s best offerings, but I would highly recommend putting aside one lunch or evening to enjoy the food at Delfina Cantina Portuguesa. It may not be the vibiest restaurant of your trip, but well worth the visit and your tastebuds will thank you.
What’s the service like at AlmaLusa Alfama?
Staff were friendly at check-in and ready to offer advice on what to see and do (the hotel has a great list of recommendations, from walking tours to events happening in the city.) Instead of key-cards, you’re given an actual key, which you can drop off at reception when you leave the building. As the hotel doesn’t have in-room phones, they also offer access to a smartphone if you need any assistance or reservations made.
What’s the area like around AlmaLusa Alfama?
The best way to explore the area is to throw away the map and see where your feet take you, stopping at ceramic shops and historic spots along the way. The Church of Santo António de Lisboa, just a street away, is a great starting point. And don’t miss the picturesque viewpoint called Miradouro de Santa Luzia opposite – as popular for its pretty azulejo tiles and bougainvillea-covered pergola as it is for its view.
If you would rather avoid the hills (the incline towards São Jorge Castle is unforgiving), hop on the ever-popular 28 tram, which takes you on a pretty epic tour of central Lisbon. Or skip the crowds and jump on the 12 instead (fewer people, similar route.) In the other direction, you’ll find the sunny-yellow Praça de Comércio and the main shopping street of the city. Want to head up the coast? Cais de Sodre station is a ten-minute walk away, the best transport hub for city beaches and coastal towns like pretty Cascais.
Why should you book a stay at AlmaLusa Alfama?
AlmaLusa Alfama is a boutique hotel with real heritage and plenty of local charm. What it skips in bells and whistles, it makes up for in location: some of the best viewpoints and historic sights are just minutes away. Back at base, you can keep the culinary adventures going with plates of tasty Portuguese fare.
DETAILS
Address: Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, nº 16, Lisboa, 1100-070
Price per night: Starting from €125 per night
Closest transport: Terreiro do Paço station is a few minutes’ walk from AlmaLusa Alfama