You can’t miss the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz and its imposing modernist façade topped with the iconic ‘Ritz’ sign. Opened in 1959, as the city’s first true luxury hotel, it still knows how to make an entrance. As soon as the doorman ushered me inside, the gleaming marble lobby, towering floral display and impressive collection of artworks were proof that this old-school glamour is far from a thing of the past. The contemporary rooms and spacious pool and spa areas – all the mod-cons present and correct – bring the hotel right up to date, however. As for the location, right next to Lisbon’s most central green space – Parque Eduardo VII, with its sweeping city views – is ideal if you want to balance sightseeing with a little serenity. What really got me starry-eyed? Undoubtedly one of the best tasting menus in the city awaits in the hotel’s Michelin-starred CURA. Worth a visit in its own right.
Why stay at The Four Seasons Ritz?
Everything in The Four Seasons Hotel Ritz is unapologetically lavish, so if you love a bit of glitz and glamour, this will be right up your street. The brainchild of notorious Portuguese dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, who dreamed up a hotel that symbolised Portugal’s postwar prosperity, no expense was spared in showcasing the very best of what the country had to offer to international tourists. The rather opulent result? Alongside the acres of marble and grand Louis XVI-style furnishings, you’ll find a pretty impressive private collection of artwork, including artist Almada Negreiros’s imposing Centaur trilogy of Portalegre tapestries inspired by the constellation of the same name. It’s these details that tie the hotel back to its heritage; not just another luxury chain hotel where you could be anywhere.
What are the rooms like at The Four Seasons Ritz?
Space is not a challenge at the 282-room hotel and my park-view room – complete with a private terrace, king-sized bed and chaise longue – was no exception. The decor is far more understated, with splashes of teal fabrics here and there; a vintage-style Marshall radio and dark wood-panelled minibar adding to the mid-century mood. As for the contents of said minibar, the selection of ports, wines and local goodies are plentiful, but expect to pay a (pretty inflated) premium. The marble bathroom was a highlight, with a spacious tub and separate shower, hidden behind mirrored doors. Even the loo got the luxury treatment with a Japanese smart toilet. Alongside the usual robes and slippers, the Dyson hairdryer was a nice addition, as was the big beach bag that was perfect for taking down to the pool.
What is the food like at The Four Seasons Ritz?
If you’re a foodie, chances are Michelin-starred CURA is already on your Lisbon restaurant radar. Helmed by Chef Rodolfo Lavrador, the signature Percurso and Passo tasting menus, of either five or ten ‘moments’, promise curated journeys that celebrate the very best of Portugal’s ingredients and regional diversity (hence the name: curadoria means ‘curation’ in Portuguese). Despite its fine-dining status, there’s nothing stuffy about the place, with its warm lighting, friendly staff and open kitchen that offers you a peek behind the culinary curtain.
I went all in with the ten-course Percurso menu, alongside Portuguese wine pairings, and over the course of the meal I practically ran out of superlatives to describe the dishes – each arriving with a thoughtful explanation from the chef who prepared it. Highlights included succulent shrimp with açorda (a traditional bread soup reimagined as a silky purée), a divine summer ‘salad’ of creamy aubergine with bursts of tomato and watermelon, and tender Iberian pork paired with endive and rich fig. Their signature desserts – first punchy pineapple, chamomile and sparkling wine, followed by an unexpected combination of cauliflower, peach, black tea and lavender – surprised me in the best possible way. It was a culinary masterclass from beginning to end (in fact, I’m still salivating thinking about it).
Breakfast is taken at the lobby-level Veranda restaurant, where you can help yourself to a well-stocked buffet, while a pianist provides the soundtrack to your meal (and your people-watching). You can find all the usual options: spreads of fresh fruit, cold cuts, mini cakes and hot options like scrambled eggs and bacon. You can also opt for room service, a handy checklist provided at turn-down service should you decide to eat in the comfort of your own suite.
What is the service like at The Four Seasons Ritz?
Friendly front-of-house staff were very welcoming and ready to assist and there’s also a concierge for all the bookings you may need help with. When it comes to service, it’s the little details that really push a hotel into the five-star category. From the pastéis de nata waiting for me in the room upon arrival, to delivering me some toothpaste when I realised I’d forgotten some, service more than met expectations.
What are the facilities like at The Four Seasons Ritz?
It’s the pool and spa areas where you’ll likely spend most of your time when you’re not out exploring the city. I was pleasantly surprised by how peaceful the outdoor pool area was, surrounded by leafy foliage and roomy lounge chairs – perfect for lazy afternoons in the sun. The curved Ritz Pool Bar is on hand for cocktails and alfresco petiscos. Inside, you’ll find an 18-metre lap pool, with more lounging areas. I spent most of my time hopping from sauna to steam room, refreshing myself in between with handfuls of shaved ice and fruit-infused water. If you’re more in the mood to work up a sweat, the rooftop gym is pretty impressive, with 180-degree views of the city. It almost had me wanting to hit the treadmill.
What’s the area like around The Four Seasons Ritz?
When it comes to location, it's ideal for being close to the centre of the city, but removed from the hustle and bustle. It’s a slightly more corporate pocket of the city, but a short wander (or taxi ride) takes you to the cobbled streets and colourful tiles that Lisbon is famed for in no time. Just across the road you can explore the manicured Parque Eduardo VII, Lisbon’s most central green space, with the tree-lined Avenida de Liberdade (and all the designer shops) also a short walk away.
Why you should you book a stay at The Four Seasons Ritz
If your budget allows, a stay at The Four Seasons Ritz ticks all the right boxes for all-out luxury and convenience. After a day exploring the city, the spa and pool are made for slow, rejuvenating afternoons, and one of Lisbon’s best restaurants, CURA, is right on your doorstep.
DETAILS
Address: R. Rodrigo da Fonseca 88, Lisboa, - 1099-039
Price: Starting from around €600 per night
Closest transport: Humberto Delgado Airport is a 20-minute taxi ride away (suite guests can get a complimentary private town car or limousine transfer). The closest metro station is Marquês de Pombal, which is a short walk from the hotel.