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Review
Lisbon strikes an unmatched balance of spontaneous small town energy while ticking all the criteria a great city should – stellar restaurants and bars, cool museums, top-tier places to go shopping and plethora of unique and interesting neighbourhoods to explore. It’s that balance which is also somehow executed by ME Lisbon, a large luxury stay in Marquês do Pombal which, despite its glassy exterior, intimidatingly polished lobby and sheer size, is an unabashedly friendly and thoughtfully designed hotel that I would definitely return to.
While this hotel is big, corporate, and ultra luxurious, the warmth of the service, the excellent restaurant and the tasteful design mean it still feels quintessentially Lisbon. Sure, it’s a far cry from the whimsical little boutique hotels you’ll find in Alfama or the city centre, but ME Lisbon, armed not only with a friendly team, good food and a marvellous scent (literally everything smells good – even the air in the lifts) but also a downright beautiful spa and rooftop pool mean you can properly kick back here.
There are 213 rooms at ME Lisbon, with a whopping 12 different types to choose from – we stayed in an expansive Beyond ME+ Suite Street View which overlooked Avenue António Augusto de Aguiar and bragged a walk-in dressing area with shedloads of storage, a bar and mini fridge, living space and Smart TV, plus a bedroom area and a vast and luxurious en suite.
The entire space was flooded with sunlight and tastefully decorated in muted tones with lots of brass detailings, pine-wood floors, and vases, pictures and coffee table books neatly laid about. The bed was enormous, with a perfectly firm mattress dressed in silky, moldable duvets and pillows which swallowed me into a cosy abyss of sleep, helped by weighting black out curtains which shielded us completely from the street light outside.
Opposite was the gleaming en suite bathroom, with a large freestanding tub and a double rainshower plus twin sinks, completely covered in shiny white marble. It had brilliant water pressure and soft towels and robes, plus deliciously scented lotions and – wait for it – a vanity set, tampons, toothbrushes, lip balms, hand cream, night cream, shower caps, plus straighteners and a hairdryer ready to use. It felt ridiculously glamorous, but with sliding doors on one end and nothing but a curtain acting as the wall to the bedroom, it lacked privacy which was funny but awkward when travelling with a friend.
Getting assistance with anything from your spa booking to ordering room service was a breeze with the phone, though higher-tech features like the light switches – all operated from a small touch screen in ‘comfort’, ‘daytime’ or ‘nightlight’ mode, and which doubles as a thermostat – are a little fiddlier.
Fismuler is ME Lisbon’s main restaurant, which is hidden behind a large wooden door just off the lobby and bar, and while hotel dining rooms can often feel like an afterthought, this refined, warm space is quite the opposite.
Firstly because, despite the vastness of the room (they can cater to 120 covers in here), it retains the air of a well-adored neighbourhood restaurant. You’re met with a wall of fermenting jars and wine bottles, and lots and lots of plants. Dainty wicker lampshades dangle from the ceiling, and dark wood tables are laid out with white napkins neatly rolled up on the plates, around which appear to be a mix of everybody from business associates to families out for celebratory dinners.
After being formally yet amicably greeted and talked through the small plates menu by our waiter, he recommended a vinho verde which we ordered alongside wonderfully plump bread and duck infused butter, as well as some vividly colourful scallops, oysters, and hake (though the menu changes frequently, so best arrive with without having set your heart on a plate). But, while it might not sound like much, the standout plate was the tomato salad. Prepared table side, we were asked how much vinegar we’d like and watched as succulent tomatoes were tossed with just a sprinkling of seasoning and lumped on our table amongst the other dishes. Practically sizzling with fresh, acidic flavour, it’s worth stopping by just to try these — even as a pre-dinner snack.
This is also where you’ll come for breakfast to enjoy the restaurant’s a la carte morning menu, and while each dish is satisfying and prettily presented – particularly the Turkish eggs, which were my favourite of the dishes I tried – you can’t really beat a breakfast buffet.
After something lighter? ATTIKO is the bar on ME Lisbon’s rooftop, so head here for cocktails, snacks and to absorb the rays — it’s deceptively sheltered thanks to surrounding glass panels.
While this is a corporate hotel, the service is in keeping with Lisbon’s general aura of being cool and laid-back. Staff are still professional and smartly dressed, but there’s a warmth and breezy air about how front of house operations are conducted, which makes this feel a whole lot less intimidating than you might have expected on arrival.
A huge perk of this hotel being a far cry from the cutesy boutiques you find elsewhere in Lisbon is the space it offers, and the fancy facilities it can accommodate.
Head all the way to the top of the hotel and you’ll find ATTIKO Rooftop Pool Bar, a stylish sun trap shielded from street noise and the breeze from encircling glass screens where you can laze away when it’s too hot for more sightseeing. A tentative watchful eye from the bar staff best describes the service here, where we were regularly checked in with but not intruded upon, and the music is calm, mellow, and not at all Ibiza-like. It also feels very private thanks to being one of the only utilised rooftops nearby.
There were plenty of supple loungers available, and white the pool is much more for a quick dip than swimming laps, it was an idyllic and pitstop to cool off after trudging around Lisbon’s hilly streets in the late-summer sun.
In the basement is where you’ll find KORPO Spa, which is a placid, inviting space which includes an indoor pool, sauna, steam room, and a sensory shower – press blue for a much-need cold mist once you’ve reached your limit in the hot rooms – as well as a single and a couples treatment space.
I had a 60-minute Scens 360º Experience Massage, a deep-tissue treatment which used soothing, 100 percent organic body oils in delicious scents of clove and arnica (known for its healing properties) and seriously eased a lot of bodily tension. My one qualm is that not only can you hear the faint trundle of traffic, but you feel as though you’re directly beneath it.
There’s also a decent fitness centre to the right of the spa reception.
You’re not right in the heart of Lisbon’s tourist action at this hotel, but that actually works in its favour. Instead, the hotel sits around the corner from Parque Eduardo VII and is a bus journey (or decent walk) away from neighbourhoods like Bairro Alto, Caido and Alfama. Follow Avenue da Liberdade (which is essentially Lisbon’s answer to the Champs Elysee, lined with glossy designer shops) and Praça Dom Pedro IV, right in the city centre. On Friday and Saturdays, there’s a little market along the western edge of the street, selling locally-made artwork, accessories, snacks and shoes.
If you’re heading into town for dinner, make sure to stop by Cerveja Canil to sample some whacky beers, or swing by The Kissaten for cocktails on your way back.
This hotel is great for summer visits to what can become a very sweaty city, thanks to its gleaming rooftop oasis and stunningly tranquil pool, but if you’re in Lisbon for a longer stay – perhaps a week-long visit as opposed to the typical weekend break – the abundance of space and offered up by ME Lisbon makes it a great place to settle in.
DETAILS
Address: 2 Avenida António Augusto de Aguiar, Avenidas Novas, 1050-010 Lisbon, Portugal
Price per night: From €263 per night
Closest transport: Av. Fontes P. Melo bus stop is right outside the hotel, and is served by the 207, 722, 727, 736, 738, 744, and 783 buses. Lisbon Airport is a 15-20 minute drive.
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