Tucked away down a cobbled alley off one of the main thoroughfares of Lisbon’s old town, memmo Alfama is a boutique hotel that blends effortlessly into its surroundings. It feels more like walking into a very stylish Portuguese home rather than a hotel, with interesting nooks and cosy corners to explore at every turn. The best (now not-so-secret) feature of all lies outside: the first-floor terrace with ruby-red pool and phenomenal 180-degree view of Alfama and the Tagus River. One of the few private terraces in the neighbourhood, hundreds of higgledy-piggledy terracotta rooftops stretch up towards São Jorge Castle and the grand Convento da Graça, perched atop one of Lisbon’s seven hills. With no crowds of tourists in sight, it’s the kind of place you’ll want to keep to yourself.
Why stay at memmo Alfama?
Ever stayed in a luxury hotel, but thought I could literally be anywhere? At memmo Alfama, there’s nothing that feels copy-and-paste. One of three boutique hotels across Portugal, memmo hotels’ M.O. is about more than being a place to stay, but rather a space where visitors can authentically experience their surroundings – and even make memories with fellow guests. Whether you head off on one of their free walking tours, take part in a workshop with a local artist or enjoy their fado sharing table evening, you’ll leave feeling like you got a real taste of this historic pocket of the Portuguese capital – and that’s what makes a stay here special.
What are the rooms like at memmo Alfama?
The maze-like hotel has 42 rooms, each a little different in size or view. My premium room, in warm yellow tones, felt surprisingly spacious – a sofa, bookshelf and a wall display of plates adding to its homely charm. The big bed, topped with Egyptian linen and six plump pillows, was equally welcoming. A glass wall, with an added curtain for privacy, divides the bedroom from the roomy bathroom, with its huge open shower. (A couple of towel hooks wouldn’t go amiss, though.) A minibar comes stocked with wine, soft drinks and snacks – but look out for the complimentary Porto tonic kit, so you can whip up one of Portugal’s favourite cocktails. A handy schedule for the week sits at the bedside, with all the activities and experiences on offer, as well as a notebook with the title: ‘Let Lisbon inspire you’, encouraging guests to get creative with notes and sketches.
What are the experiences like at memmo Alfama?
At memmo Alfama, it’s less about the facilities, but more about the experiences. There’s plenty to get stuck into – yoga sessions, walking tours, and a weekly fado dinner where you feast on local delicacies while listening to Lisbon’s signature sound, fado, which has echoed through the city for centuries. Every week they run workshops to get your creative juices flowing too, from painting and wine tasting on the terrace to ceramic and tile-making and an embroidery workshop with a local grandmother – in partnership with ‘A Avó Veio Trabalhar’, a project empowering senior women in the area. If, like me, you can’t get enough of the view from the terrace, don’t miss the morning yoga – watching sleepy Alfama bathed in golden morning light as I did my sun salutations was a pretty unbeatable way to start the day.
What is the food like at memmo Alfama?
Breakfast is served in the Portuguese-meets-Scandi chic living room, where you’ll find a generous buffet alongside à la carte options. I went for one of their signature dishes, The Iberian Way smoked ham topped with a fried egg – plus a crepe with berries for good measure. I couldn’t resist loading up my plate with mini pastries and their homemade yoghurt pots with fruit coulis, either. Tea and filter coffee are self-serve, or you can order a barista-made one, and a large turquoise SMEG fridge houses mini bottles of fresh orange and green detox juice.
Come evening, head for a sundowner at the terrace wine bar, where you can order from a menu including salads, sandwiches and petiscos (Portuguese tapas). If you’re staying on a Monday or Thursday, it’s well worth joining the weekly fado and wine dinner. Deeply woven into Lisbon’s identity, fado dates back to the early 1800s, characterised by intricate guitar rhythms, emotive vocals and haunting tales of love and loss. The visiting singers and guitarists are excellent, their melancholic melodies echoing through the intimate space. The sharing table is a great way to meet fellow guests, while you savour Portuguese dishes like hearty bacalhau na broa (salted codfish and green beans in cornbread), mushroom croquettes and melt-in-the-mouth veal with potatoes – all washed down with a great selection of Portuguese wines. You won’t leave hungry (and our very diligent host made sure our glasses were never empty.)
What is the service like at memmo Alfama?
As with the rest of the hotel, the warmth and informality extends to the staff who were friendly and accommodating at all times – no complaints here.
What’s the area like around memmo Alfama?
Alfama is Lisbon’s most soulful and historic neighbourhood – a tangle of narrow cobbled streets, pastel façades and intimate squares. The best way to explore? Let yourself get lost! Joining one of the free walking tours is highly recommended – it’s a great way to go beyond the main sights and our guide’s crash course on Lisbon’s past before we set off was a great introduction. Though it’s one of the city’s most-trodden quarters, within minutes we were off the tourist trail, weaving through hidden alleys and tiled courtyards. Along the way, I learned everything from the story behind Lisbon’s iconic azulejos to tales of the devastating 1755 earthquake – and plenty of local stories that you won’t find in the guidebooks.
Why you should book a stay at memmo Alfama
Stay here if you want to immerse yourself in Lisbon’s most historic district, while enjoying a place that feels as homely as it is luxurious. Every detail is curated to reflect the spirit of Alfama and the locally inspired experiences offer an authentic glimpse of local culture. But the real selling point? The best panoramic terrace in this part of town.
DETAILS
Address: Travessa das Merceeiras, 27 - Alfama, Lisboa 1100-348
Price: from €136 per night
Closest transport: memmo Alfama is approximately half an hour by taxi from Humberto Delgado Airport. The nearest metro stations are Terreiro do Paço and Santa Apolónia.