Estádio

There's no name outside but you can recognise this bar by the paintings of Roman-style stadiums - estádios - around the walls. It's a pleasingly scruffy place with rudimentary snacks and the tackiest jukebox in Lisbon, with a diet of fado lightened by the odd 1970s pop tune. Young bohos mix with garrulous old geezers around Formica-topped tables, served by a famously gruff old waiter who's a sweetie at heart. A perennial early-evening meeting point for foreign students, and anyone who wants to nurse a beer while watching football.