Arco do Castelo

Judging from the basic furniture, plain tablecloths and bottle-lined walls you might think this tiny place was a cheap Italian, but in fact it's one of Lisbon's few genuinely Goan restaurants. The menu only runs to two pages, but includes xacuti (chicken with coconut and aromatic spices), balchão de porco and sarapatel (pork dishes, the former in a rich sauce containing dried shrimp, the latter in a rich ginger gravy). Booking is essential for dinner; note that the kitchen closes an hour before the restaurant does.