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We can say with near-complete certainty that one of Anthony Bourdain’s happiest moments in his Lisbon trip was his pitstop at O Trevo. Knowing how the restaurant’s frying pan works isn’t essential. All you need to know is that the bifana’s reputation has transcended borders, and that this humble counter on Luis de Camões Square is a serene oasis in the maze of gastronomic innovations that aren’t always delicious.