In what was once a bakery, the old chequered marble floor and marble counter remain - but advance down the shiny grey corridor to your table and you're definitely in the 21st century. The restaurant's trump card is its back patio, which is shaded in summer and covered in winter, but there are several dining rooms if you want something cosier. The crowd here is well-heeled and the menu not particularly adventurous; snacks predominate, from deep-fried potato skins to octopus salad and the house steak sandwich.