Senhor Peixe

At 'Mr Fish', a sign in Portuguese boasts that this is 'Setúbal in Lisbon': their man is in the dockside market each morning to snap up the day's catch when it comes in. There are 15 or so kinds of fish on offer, most served charcoal-grilled, plus various pasta and rice dishes. The house speciality is a lavish caldeirada (fish stew) for two, good value at €29.