Barshu

Restaurants, Chinese Soho
Recommended
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • 3 out of 5 stars
(18user reviews)
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Just outside Chinatown, this is London’s prime exponent of the alluringly fiery and mouth-numbing cuisine of China's Sichuan province.

The distance north of Shaftesbury Avenue, though only 20 metres, is important. Barshu (the original of a Sichuan quartet along with Ba Shan, Baozi Inn and newcomer Baiwei) is distinct from Chinatown’s mostly Cantonese restaurants in looks and pricing, as well as cuisine. The dark wooden ground floor is brightened by red lanterns and partitioned by a beautifully carved screen; upstairs is similarly woody.

Despite such rusticity, you could spend extravagantly here – though there are ways to lessen the bill. Order tea (£2 per person) rather than wine (the cheapest bottle is £21.90). You’ll need to slake your thirst to counteract the fiery, numbing and sour flavours that characterise western Chinese cookery. The menu holds much interest, listing the likes of pea jelly, prairie tripe, and stir-fried chicken gizzards with pickled chilli – each dish is depicted.

To start, order from the ‘Chengdu street snacks’ section, rather than the pricey appetisers; sweet-potato noodles in hot and sour sauce was a filling bowlful of noodle soup, chilli oil and numbing peppercorns, for just £4. Main courses of fish-fragrant pork slivers (a pleasing textural mix including wood-ear fungus and crunchy bamboo shoot) and stir-fried long beans, chopped small and well-paired with minced pork, also hold delight.

Drawbacks? Many dishes are hot and oily, so order steamed rice and (expensive) plain vegetables for balance. Service could be sharper too, but Barshu nevertheless remains London’s prime exponent of this alluring cuisine.

 

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Barshu says
The food of Sichuan province in south-west China is one of the world's great cuisines. Its most famous characteristic is its fiery spiciness, which comes from the liberal use of chillies and lip-tingling Sichuan pepper. But hot and spicy is only part of the story.

Sichuanese chefs are legendary for their ability to combine many different tastes into exquisite, complex flavours. Some of these are robustly spicy, while others are delicate and teasing. And the use of chillies is so inventive that their taste never pales.

At Barshu we want to bring you the best of the authentic flavours of Sichuan. We hope you enjoy your food.
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Posted:

Venue name: Barshu
Contact:
Address: 28 Frith Street
London
W1D 5LF
Opening hours: Meals served noon-11pm Mon-Thur, Sun; noon-11.30pm Fri, Sat
Transport: Tube: Leicester Square or Tottenham Court Road tube
Price: Main courses £9.90-£30.90. Minimum charge £20 per head
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