L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Restaurants, French Covent Garden
Recommended
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • 4 out of 5 stars
(15user reviews)
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Venue says Lunch - a three-course, Michelin-starred experience. Reserved and ordered entirely online, starting at £29 for a unique seasonal menu.

London arm of a high-end, global chain from prolific restaurateur Joël Robuchon.

I hadn’t expected to be feverishly scooping up pea soup and spoonfuls of mash at a Michelin-starred restaurant, but this French venue from celebrated chef Joël Robuchon delights in doing things differently. In a good way.

As you’d expect it’s a stylish spot, but not in the least bit clinical or stuffy. Sure, you can go full-on fancy by ordering one of the wallet-melting tasting menus, but there’s also a £45 set lunch/pre-theatre menu. Okay, that’d buy you a lot of tacos, freakshakes and sourdough pizzas – but for cooking of this standard in central London, it’s pretty damn good.

And pretty damn good covers everything here. A starter of beetroot-cured salmon with pickled vegetables and avocado mousseline was hugely enjoyable, but it was blown away by a headliner of smoked confit cod with sorrel cream and pea velouté. The fish was cooked perfectly, with just the right amount of bite, while the velouté (essentially a smooth soup) was rich and velvety, balanced by the occasional note of refreshing sourness from the sorrel. It demanded to be mopped up with that buttery mashed potato – a complimentary ‘signature of the restaurant’. Michelin-star mash? Why the hell not.

On to dessert, and the second-best thing about L’Atelier’s rum baba is that you get to pour the rum on the cake yourself. The best thing? The obscene ooze of booze from the sponge. It’s a punchy hit, but vanilla ice cream cools the flames.

It’s these light touches that make L’Atelier so enjoyable and free of the hoity-toity air that put many off Michelin-starred venues. So, skip the zeitgeisty street food for a month and treat yourself to some very fine dining – minus the panic attack when the bill arrives.

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L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon says
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, set over three floors, has two exciting restaurants, a superb bar and roof-top terrace. Our multi-award winning Michelin-starred restaurant is situated on West Street, in the heart of London's theatre land, and moments away from Covent Garden. Executive head chef Jeremy Page's seasonal dishes are deliciously uncomplicated and beautifully presented, combining classic French inspiration, contemporary imagination and the best possible ingredients delivered daily.

The stunning Japanese-inspired counter is open to the kitchen where superb modern-French classics are created before your eyes.
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By: Tristan Parker

Posted:

Venue name: L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Contact:
Address: 13-15 West Street
London
WC2H 9NE
Opening hours: Bar Open noon-2am Mon-Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun.Ground floor Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 5.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 5.30-10pm Sun. Main courses £15-£55. Set meal (noon-2.30pm, 5.30pm & 6.30pm) £29 2 courses, £35 3 courses, £40 4 courses.1st floor Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat
Transport: Tube: Leicester Square tube
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £220.
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