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Seawater may not sound like the most appetising thing to add to a batch of pizza dough, but the folks at Neapolitan pizzeria ’O ver swear by it. They say it makes the food lighter and more digestible – and not, as you might expect, like it’s been dragged through a salt flake factory. Sure enough, the pizza I tasted was both fluffy and flavourful, topped with splodges of n’duja and a pool of molten mozzarella. Though a side of rosemary focaccia, which also contained a slosh of the salty stuff, was flat and dense.
Otherwise, the food is thoughtfully sourced and simply presented. A Puglian burrata arrived plump and wobbling, while a starter of fried aubergine with a tomato sauce had a wonderfully rich smokiness.
Decor is pure Scandi, with smooth wooden chairs and plants lit by glowing orbs on the end of slender golden bars, though the narrow room makes the tables feel penned in.
But that’s a minor quibble. ’O ver serves thoroughly decent dishes made with excellent produce – and can genuinely claim to put a bit of the Mediterranean on every plate.