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You should know what you’re getting from a group with restaurants in places like Hampstead, South Ken, Geneva, Singapore and Vienna. And sure enough, this new branch of Patara – now a London fixture for more than 25 years – certainly fits the brand’s ‘fine Thai dining’ bill. It’s a sophisticated-looking dining room – all pretty plates, chunky silver cutlery, sweeps of marble and lighting turned down low.
That does mean lofty prices, though. Evenings here can easily turn spendy, so lunchtime set menus are a better shout for those on a budget. From here, duck in tamarind sauce was a highlight, its prettily plated slices of pink breast finished with a good bit of crispy fat and a balanced sweet-sour sauce. Black pepper beef was decent too: big on flavour and punchy with heat. Our only grumbles? Portions were measly and service needs honing – we were asked three times for our order within five minutes of sitting down.
Still, this is otherwise a slick operation with an obvious understanding of what constitutes good Thai cooking. A solid – if not cheap – new spot from a reliable group.