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Silver Lining

Restaurants, Contemporary European Hackney
3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

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A small-plates restaurant from the people behind Every Cloud in Hackney.

Every cloud has a silver lining. The people behind Hackney cocktail bar Every Cloud have made that old adage come true by opening this small-plates restaurant right next door, and calling it (wait for it)… Silver Lining. It’s a fun bit of wordplay, and they look good together, sitting side by side on trendy Morning Lane. Silver Lining is just as charmingly petite, simple and moodily lit as its sister. It even has a bar. But they only serve (frighteningly strong) pre-mixed cocktails, and food is very much the focus.

The plates here are pretty elaborate for a place that bills itself as a ‘neighbourhood restaurant’. Sometimes that’s a good thing: ‘cheesy chips’ came thick-cut and slathered in indulgent béchamel and roasted garlic – less drunken uni snack, more posh après-ski. Rich pork belly with parsnip purée and pear was also excellent.

Other dishes were overdone. A fresh oyster served with strawberry elderflower would have been nicer plain, if I’m honest, and the Chantenay carrots were basically just standard carrots, smothered in salt. A corn dog with spicy bean and dill aioli was also spoiled by over-salting. It’s a shame, because this little restaurant looks and feels so sexy. Someone in the kitchen needs to lay off the Maldon.

Details

Address: 13 Morning Lane
Hackney
London
E9 6ND
Transport: Hackney Central Overground
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £95.
Contact:
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