If you needed extra proof that culinary bonafides run in the Chang family, last night you got it. At the 35th annual James Beard Foundation awards—which were held on Monday, June 16 at the Lyric Opera in Chicago—Nando Chang of Itamae AO took home the coveted medal in the Best Chef: South category, following closely in the footsteps of his sister Valerie, who won the exact same award a year earlier for her own acclaimed kitchen work over at Maty's.
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The Chang siblings, as well as their father Fernando, opened the first iteration of Itamae in 2018, when it was a mere food counter at the then-St. Roch Market (now known as MIA Market) in the Design District. The original counter—which served Nikkei cuisine, a delicious fusion of Peruvian and Japanese food—eventually grew into a standalone restaurant across the Palm Court, before it closed in 2023 so both Nando and Valerie could work on their own solo concepts.
For Valerie, that was Maty's, a Peruvian charmer named for their grandmother and for Nando, Itamae AO, a 10-seat omakase counter directly connected to its sister restaurant (literally) that turns out a beautiful and beguiling tasting menu of Japanese-Peruvian bites. Nando's refined reimaginings earned the Miami restaurant its first-ever Michelin star earlier this year, so the James Beard sparkler is simply another glorious garnish on top of one tasty year.
Itamae AO was one of two Miami-based finalists among this year's James Beard nominees, with ViceVersa—the aperitivo bar off the lobby of the Elser Hotel in downtown Miami—being recognized in the Best New Bar category. Alas, that local haunt was ultimately beat out by Identidad Cocktail Bar in San Juan, Puerto Rico. Prior to Valerie Chang's 2024 victory in the Best Chef: South category, and her bro's subsequent win a year after, a Miami-based chef hadn't taken home a James Beard Award since all the way back in 2010.
Along with the Miami nods, Florida also saw two other finalists this year: Sue Chin and Jason Chin of Orlando's Good Salt Restaurant Group (Seito Sushi, Reyes Mezcaleria, The Osprey, and others) in the Outstanding Restaurateur category, and Winter Park's Ômo by Jônt in the Best New Restaurant category. Congrats to all of our Florida winners and finalists!