When it comes to Miami restaurants, Mandolin Aegean Bistro has long reigned as the smart, pretty popular girl everyone wants to hang out with and be like. But there’s a new Mediterranean spot in town, and she’s every bit as effortlessly stylish and charming, with a humble, veg-forward menu whose character shines through in thoughtful details and simple, good ingredients. Mama Joon is a minimalistic, modern-rustic restaurant and bar residing in the newly opened Life House Hotel Collins Park (the NYC-based Life House brand opened its first three “locally rooted lifestyle hotels” in Miami over the last year and has four others on the way including in Nantucket and Denver).
Make your way through the neutral-toned, Le Labo scented lobby past Mama’s Bar to the main dining room, which is narrow enough to feel cozy and relaxed but whose high ceilings, rich natural wood finishes and lush waterfront terrace overlooking the slow-moving Collins Canal give the space a more subtly luxurious air. Your meal will start with an envelope of fresh, seasonal bread to share with the table. And you’ll want to save a bit for what you should definitely order next: Mama’s Mezze. A rainbow of classic and modern Mediterranean snacks and dips like labneh, house-marinated chili feta and beet hummus with kaffir lime neatly piled into little ceramic dishes and served with warm za'atar spiced manousheh (a traditional Lebanese flatbread), this homey spread just might outshine any of the mezze platters on offer at Mandolin.
The rest of the menu progresses similarly with flavorful veggie-based shared plates hinting at Life House founder Rami Zeidan’s Lebanese roots, like the spicy eggplant toast and the roasted cauliflower served atop tender slices of squash and a lemony caper sauce. Dishes like the grilled lamb chops with cucumber, olives, goat cheese and mint and the Florida clams bathed in a hearty leek and lemon-based broth ensure no meat eaters in your party go hungry. Balance out all that spice with the herbaceous Joon Collins, made with gin, a house-made Falernum liqueur and lemon. If you’re on the beach—or don’t mind venturing east to explore the area’s new spate of hip, more restrained food and nightlife offerings—Mama Joon is a worthy destination to get your fix of elegant Mediterranean fare and fresh, unfussy Miami scene.
