The entrance to this taxidermy-strewn saloon is hidden behind an old phone booth inside Crif Dogs. Pick up the receiver and a hostess opens the back wall of the booth. Inside, a team of barkeeps (led by industry icon Jim Meehan) offer thoughtful cocktail creations like the frothy Sixth Street, a complex, guava-spiked mix of house-made ginger beer, kafir-lime cordial and pungent curry powder. The staff is happy to talk you through any libation on the menu, or suggest one of the PDT-exclusive haute dogs brought in from next door. It’s that kind of dedication that makes getting in worth the effort.