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L’avant comptoir du marché

  • Bars and pubs
  • Odéon
  • price 2 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
L’Avant-Comptoir du Marché
Photograph: L’Avant-Comptoir du Marché
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Time Out Says

5 out of 5 stars

Pig out at this 100% pork tapas bar.

In the kingdom of chefs, the pig is king – or so goes the slogan of our favourite south-western French chef, Yves Camdeborde, who has just opened his fourth address (after L'Avant Comptoir de la Mer and Le Comptoir du Relais). A love letter to pork, there are pigs on the walls, a flying pig hanging from the ceiling, a ham bone and pots of lard on the counter (which we choose to spread liberally on cornbread).

Just like in his two other ‘avant-comptoirs’, dish choices are suspended from hooks – no menus. Gourmet small plates include a deliciously pink confit pork shoulder, hay-baked new potatoes and anchovy butter (€8.50), Bayonne ham croquettes (€3.50) and sublime pork ravioli (€6.50). Leave room for the pies, incredible deli meats and weekly changing terrine (ours is a melt-in-the-mouth pig’s foot terrine).

And really, carnivorous delights such as this are no good without wine. The selection here is sourced from independent producers, such as a 2014 Montrieux from the Loire. And what else? Oh yes of course – shots of Bearnese pig blood, which resemble liquid black pudding. Not bad at all actually. One diner asked for a vegetarian dish, to which Yves Camdeborde himself replied: "but that’s like going into a post office and asking to buy a hammer.." then reappeared minutes later with a beautiful looking salad. So it may be pork-based through and through, but it’s damn friendly too.

TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE

Written by
Zazie Tavitian

Details

Address:
14 rue Lobineau
Paris
75006
Transport:
Metro: Mabillon ou Odéon
Price:
Wine €4.50-9, bottles €20. Tapas €3.50-12
Opening hours:
Mon-Sat 7am-11pm
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