L’avant comptoir du marché

Bars and pubs, Tapas bars Odéon
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L'avant comptoir des cochons (L'avant comptoir des cochons ©ZT)
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L'avant comptoir des cochons ©ZT

Pig out at this 100% pork tapas bar.

In the kingdom of chefs, the pig is king – or so goes the slogan of our favourite south-western French chef, Yves Camdeborde, who has just opened his fourth address (after L'Avant Comptoir de la Mer and Le Comptoir du Relais). A love letter to pork, there are pigs on the walls, a flying pig hanging from the ceiling, a ham bone and pots of lard on the counter (which we choose to spread liberally on cornbread).

Just like in his two other ‘avant-comptoirs’, dish choices are suspended from hooks – no menus. Gourmet small plates include a deliciously pink confit pork shoulder, hay-baked new potatoes and anchovy butter (€8.50), Bayonne ham croquettes (€3.50) and sublime pork ravioli (€6.50). Leave room for the pies, incredible deli meats and weekly changing terrine (ours is a melt-in-the-mouth pig’s foot terrine).

And really, carnivorous delights such as this are no good without wine. The selection here is sourced from independent producers, such as a 2014 Montrieux from the Loire. And what else? Oh yes of course – shots of Bearnese pig blood, which resemble liquid black pudding. Not bad at all actually. One diner asked for a vegetarian dish, to which Yves Camdeborde himself replied: "but that’s like going into a post office and asking to buy a hammer.." then reappeared minutes later with a beautiful looking salad. So it may be pork-based through and through, but it’s damn friendly too.

TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE

By: Zazie Tavitian

Posted:

Venue name: L’avant comptoir du marché
Address: 14 rue Lobineau
6e
Paris

Opening hours: Mon-Sat 7am-11pm
Transport: Metro: Mabillon ou Odéon
Price: Wine €4.50-9, bottles €20. Tapas €3.50-12
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