Our top five
Here in Corsica, it’s not a margherita but a ‘mozzarella,’ a tomato-mozza-oregano pizza (all the ingredients of the cult Italian pizza – minus the name, of course). Soft dough, delicious tomato sauce and an abundance of mozzarella. Like all the pizzas here, it’s sublime.
Where? Papacionu, 7 rue Cadet, 9eme
A fine and crusty base, with fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella) and immense basil leaves: everything is just as it should be.
Where? Allegra, 70 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 10eme
And the best of the rest...
Dough here is made from Italian flour and fermented for 72 hours minimum, while the tomato sauce gets a kick from the basil and melt-in-your-mouth grated mozzarella. It’s just a shame that such a good base is barely cooked.
Where? Genio Osteria, 9 boulevard Raspail, Paris 6eme
A wonderful thin base, with a good balance between cheese and tomato. However, an overly wood-fired crust overwhelms the delicate flavours.
Where? Louie Louie, 78 rue de Charonne, 11eme
A beautiful balance between mozzarella and tomato sauce but it could have done with a little less time in the oven.
Where? Grazie, 91 boulevard Beaumarchais, 3eme
This new trattoria on rue d’Alésia tries too hard to be cool, the music is too loud and there’s too much on the pizza…why add parmesan to a margherita this good? But enough of our moaning, it’s more than edible and the price is not to be sniffed at.
Where? Fabrica, 81 rue d'Alésia, 14eme
Classic dough with good-quality ingredients, but it was overdone and little on the bland side.
Where? Sale e Pepe, 30 rue Ramey, 18eme
Craving a meatier combination?
Crusty bread, salty ham, lashings of butter – that's it. And because there's nothing worse than a crap jambon-beurre, we took the hit and scouted out the city's best. Bon appétit.