By Simon Duncan
For the last two decades, most people visiting Kiyosumi-Shirakawa in the east end of Tokyo were aiming for the city-run Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo. Although the main draw in this quiet ’hood is currently closed for extensive renovations until an unspecified 2018 date, there’s still much to see for fans of both contemporary art and cool coffee shops.
On weekdays you can usually have the area to yourself, but don’t come too early: most galleries don’t open until the afternoon and plenty of the independent coffee shops don’t start serving until late morning. The ground in Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is flat and traffic on the roads is sparse compared to central Tokyo, making the neighbourhood a perfect place to explore on foot.
Alternatively, you can rent a bike for the day for ¥500 from Alohaloco Studio (1-4-10 Tokiwa, Koto-ku; alohaloco.com; daily 10am-6pm) which sits beside the Sumida River, close to a statue and Shinto shrine both dedicated to the poet Basho.
The legendary 17th-century haiku scribe is one of many artists to have lived in the area, as the Basho Museum (1-6-3 Tokiwa, Koto-ku; www.kcf.or.jp/basho; 9.30am-5pm, closed 2nd & 4th Mon of the month) nearby explains in more detail.
Basho Matsuo
There are a number of different free maps in both English and Japanese that can be picked up from the subway station or at a number of galleries and shops, but half the joy of the area is to let yourself get lost.
Kiyosumi-Shirakawa has a strong sense of community, and you can find out what shows are currently on and where the old-fashioned way: by picking up flyers and postcards at the many galleries and coffee shops.
Sakura Gallery
One essential stop off is Sakura Gallery (3-7-4 Kiyosumi, Koto-ku; kiyosumi-gallery.sakura.ne.jp; 12noon-7pm, closed Mon). After a decade of displaying the work of local artists in its original location, it recently relocated down the road.
Thankfully none of the charm was lost in the move and it remains an art space typical of the area: set in a recently renovated and repurposed building, it’s a small, stark space that lets the paintings talk for themselves.
Another veteran, Ando Gallery (3-3-6 Hirano, Koto-ku; andogallery.co.jp; 11am-7pm, closed Sun, Mon & hols) has also been operating in the area for around a decade, showcasing both Japanese and foreign artists.
Blue Bottle Coffee
If you need a caffeine injection after all that art, you’re in luck. Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is craft coffee central, with Blue Bottle (bluebottlecoffee.jp) from California opening up a branch here in 2015 – a move that helped fuel the local coffee boom. Plenty of small local coffee shops and stands occupy the canal-flanked area between Kiba Park and the famous Kiyosumi Gardens.
Arise Coffee Roaster
Check out Arise Coffee Roasters (arisecoffee.jp) and the arty skateboards hanging on its wall, or the playful Sunday Zoo (2-17-4 Hirano, Koto-ku; karny.jp/sundayzoo; Fri, Sat 10.30am-6pm, Sun 10.30am-4.30pm), the name of which reflects the fact that the area only really comes to life on the weekends.
If you prefer to unwind with something a little stronger, consider a drink – and another small art exhibition – at the second-floor Bar Nico (11-1 Takabashi, Koto-ku; 8pm-3am (Fri, Sat until 5am), closed Sun, Mon), a short walk from either Morishita or Kiyosumi-Shirakawa station.
Pitmans
Many of the galleries and cafés in the area are closed on Sundays, when you’re better off rounding out your stroll over some barbecue and locally brewed craft beer at riverside restaurant Pitmans (www.thesharehotels.com/lyuro/eat).
