Packed with restaurants and niche vendors carrying a variety of Asian goods, this retro street hints at how Koenji came to be nicknamed ‘Japan’s India’. Lanterns illuminate the alleys from nightfall and contribute to the energetic atmosphere. Ramen lovers: stop by the underground Nibangai (2nd street). Koenji Street
Known as 'Anime Town', Suginami City – which is classed as one of Tokyo's special wards – makes good on its reputation with a lineup of around 70 production studios, including Gundam creators Sunrise Inc. A central part of the local economy, the industry even runs its own, visit-worthy Suginami Animation Museum. The ward is also popular for its shotengai (old-school shopping streets), which are found outside practically every station in Suginami City. An essential part of the local experience, each shotengai has its own colour and vibe. In this guide, we've focused on the coolest 'hood, Koenji, but we've also featured interesting spots to visit in Asagaya, Ogikubo and Nishi-Ogikubo. Here's a snapshot of each area before you get stuck into our pick of the top 50 things to do:
Koenji: Famed for its underground music scene and scores of hip eateries and bars, Koenji hosts Tokyo's premier Awa Odori (dance) festival in August and lays claim to the title of 'Tokyo's coolest neighbourhood' year-round.
Asagaya: This area has served as the base for a wide range of subcultural communities since the radical '60s, but is now most renowned for its high concentration of anime studios and its refined entertainment scene, which includes an annual jazz festival.
Ogikubo: An unmissable stop on any Tokyo ramen tour, Ogikubo is home to some of the city's most venerable noodle houses. Its cultural history is just as rich, having been the centre of activities for several Showa-era literary greats.
Nishi-Ogikubo: Curiously combining quaint antique shops, scruffy cafés, upscale apartment buildings and dirt-cheap watering holes on the western edge of Suginami City, Nishi-Ogikubo gives off a quiet vibe while offering plenty to explore.