The name references a song by The Strokes, there are vinyl sleeves on the walls and the tables are all scuffed up, but it’s quality all the way at this near-flawless solo venture from chef James Cochran (ex-The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms). The food is exciting and complex (but never intimidating), with British combos sitting alongside ideas inspired by Cochran’s Caribbean roots. Sunday lunch consists of one ginormous true-Brit plateful of 60-day dry-aged sirloin and brisket of Dexter beef.
NOVEMBER 2019: Our latest picks include Nest (a small but fizzing little spot in Hackney) and the slick Southwark reboot of Native (which used to be in Covent Garden), as well as The Coal Shed by Tower Bridge (sizzling home-reared meats and sustainably sourced seafood) and The Green in Clerkenwell (part boozer, part restaurant). We’re also delighted to see the iconic Quality Chop House and Rochelle Canteen at the ICA on such fine form.
Yeah, greasy spoons are great – but our national cuisine is about way more than fry-ups, roasts and even (whisper it) fish and chips. London is a veritable goldmine of national culinary treasures: from 220-year-old aristo joints and top-hatted doormen to smoked eel sandwich-slinging brasseries and modern British steakhouses, we’ve rounded up 42 eateries that will make you come over all weirdly patriotic.