The best restaurants in London you should be booking

What’s the deal? Since Max Rocha’s debut solo venture opened in 2021, its smash-hit status has been impossible to deny. Part neighbourhood bistro and part classy tribute to the chef’s Dublin roots, Café Cecilia showcases Rocha’s training at leading local London lights St John and The River Café in the simple but stunning cooking. If you’re not raving about the onglet, you’ll be buzzing about the Guinness cake, or singing the praises of sublime sage-and-anchovy fritti.  

Why go? Because the Cambridge Heath gas towers have never looked as charming as when you’re gazing at them through massive windows in this airy, L-shaped warehouse-style space while ramming fries in your mouth. 

Order this Anything with Guinness in it. The cake. The bread. The ice cream. And the fritti, goodness me, the fritti.

What’s the deal? The recently revamped classic dining room of the ‘great dame of Dean Street’ boasts one of the world’s most charismatic chefs at the fore. Jeremy Lee has made a menu to treasure: seasonal, sensational and never one to scrimp on pudding, which regularly comes slathered in custard. 

Why go? For an unforgettable Soho experience. Exceptional British food, a high-end bohemian vibe and perfect people-watching are what eating out in London is all about. 

Order this Pies are Lee’s passion. Order whatever filling is going and a smoked eel sarnie on the side.

What’s the deal? A west African tasting menu of dreams in Fitzrovia, with 10-odd courses courtesy of exec chef Ayo Adeyemi, who took over the kitchen in September 2022 and has quickly made it his own.  

Why go? This laidback and airy room is fancy without the faff – there’s no fiddly, fussy food here, but rather huge, innovative flavours that draw on old family recipes and flavours from across Nigeria, Ghana and Senegal.

Order this You’ll have to plump for the tasting menu, as there’s no a la carte option, but you will have zero regrets; expect hunks of lobster tail, scotch bonnet soup and extremely moreish jollof rice. 

What’s the deal? The menu is entirely plant-based: it’s mock-meat, tofu and beancurd galore. But the fact it’s all vegan (and by extension, theoretically less damaging to the environment) isn’t the best part. The best part is that it’s genuinely delicious Chinese cuisine.

Why go? The vegans are taking over. Come and worship at their church. 

Order this The shredded tofu and water chestnut wontons in house special sauce. Deep, garlicky, fiery and fizzy, it’s an oily concoction of pure, merciful pleasure.

What’s the deal? LA chef Kris Yenbamroong has spent the past decade wowing his hometown with bold Thai flavours – and an extremely well-curated natural wine list – at his clutch of cult-y Night Market restaurants. Now it’s London’s turn. Chet’s is Yenbamroong’s first full-time European venture, and you’ll find it holding court at the back of the Hoxton hotel in Shepherd’s Bush. Massive portions with a side order of massive fun. What’s not to like?

Why go? It’s cheaper than booking a flight to Thailand by way of California, and because it’s in a hotel, it’s open all day for indulgent brekkies and lunches, too. 

Order this The gloriously gloopy blue-cheese-slathered wedge salad, complete with candied pork jowl and garlic nam jim dipping sauce. Add on a fried chicken khao soi: perfect katsu-style chicken plonked on a bed of creamy Chiang Mai curried noodles with bean sprouts and roasted chilli oil.

What’s the deal? The latest incarnation of this iconic London restaurant is perhaps its finest offering to date. A shorter, ever-changing blackboard menu removes the intimidating pomp the long-standing Smithfield outpost might hold, but is packed with treasures, from anchovy-based small plates, to whopping great fish dishes and sublime stews. Very heaven. 

Why go? To sample some of the finest British cooking you’ll ever eat. Tumble into The Golden Eagle pub opposite afterwards for a pint.

Order this Deep fried hunks of cheesy, crispy rarebit, a queen of a dish that you’ll only get at this very St John.

What’s the deal? A low-key looking joint on Finsbury Park’s Blackstock Road that serves huge, incredible helpings of Uyghur cuisine, a blend of northern Chinese dishes like noodles and dumplings, kebabs and meat-soaked bread. Try it once, be obsessed for life. 

Why go? It’s one of the few places in London where you can find overlooked, but certainly not under-flavoured Uyghur food (Etles in Walthamstow is another). Come for a powerful Szechuan punch and some of the finest noodles in London.

Order this Large-plate chicken, with its hand-pulled noodles and dry chill spice. Tugure dumplings, samsa pastries and smashed cucumber on the side is a pro move.

What’s the deal? Sat in the garden of a former school off Arnold Circus in Shoreditch, Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s idyllic bolthole is a vision of simplicity and good sourcing. Think St John (Fergus Henderson is Mr Margot) without the wine-sloshing brouhaha – and with less offal.

Why go? Because lunches are rarely more idyllic, especially in the spring. 

Order this Uncomplicated constructions sum up this place’s ethos, so pick one a simple starter such as clams, chilli and garlic. Don't ignore the old school puddings, especially the ones drowning in custard.

What’s the deal? Eat in an art gallery. No, really. This Mayfair newbie opened at the end of 2022 and, thanks to owners Hauser & Wirth, contains £50m-worth of masterpieces by everyone from Lucian Freud to Pablo Picasso. The food – trad British which borders on the Victorian but comes with a graceful twist – is pretty special too. 

Why go? When was the last you had dinner with a genuine Matisse looming over you? The art is on your table too, with salt and pepper cruets are inspired by American artist Paul McCarthy’s racy ‘Tree’ sculpture. 

Order this The showstopping lobster-head pie has got everyone talking, and at £96 you’d hope it would. But it’s possible to plump for something a little more pocket-friendly, including a selection of classic savouries, such as London rarebit, Gentleman’s Relish and cucumber on toast, or devilled-kidney omelette at £12 each.

What’s the deal? A cosy and chic side-street spot in Bloomsbury with some serious cheffy pedigree; the talented Anna Tobias – who refined her trade at London landmark Rochelle Canteen – heads up the kitchen, and the folk from 40 Maltby Street are also involved.

Why go? Because it’s basically the coolest National Trust café you’ve ever been to, with elevated, ingredient-led Euro cult classics. Think: nice things on toast, hearty but stylish soups, and rustic yet inventive salads.

Order this The super-seasonal menu is forever changing, but Tobias’s simple signature dish, a small egg-mayonnaise starter, is always worth an order.

What’s the deal? A solo venture from Barrafina’s one-time leading lady Nieves Barragán Mohacho, Sabor is a restaurant of two halves – there’s the more casual Counter and bar on the ground floor and the more refined El Asador on the first floor. It offers Spanish food with extreme flair, whatever floor you’re on, but if we have to choose – and we actually do – we’ll plump for the Counter, for its tremendous tapas and super-convivial, bordering on the rowdy, service. 

Why go? Because the menu changes so often that there’s reason to come back again and again. And again. 

Order this Only a fool would turn their nose up at the perfect pan con tomate. Whatever croquettas are on the menu are also going on your order, as is the tortilla.

What's the deal? A Bloomsbury gem which started out as the bar-based project of a wine magazine and became one of London's most respected restaurants. This is a place where you’ll feel equally welcome popping in for a solo glass of wine at the bar or catching up with old friends over a sprawling lunch – speaking of which, the set lunch menu is one of the best deals in town.

Why go? Because everything tastes of something. This shouldn’t be a remarkable quality in a restaurant, but how often have you paid through the nose for some beautifully presented but basically ambient dish that passes you by in a kind of flavourless haze? Every bite at Noble Rot is followed by a wallop of gusto. 

Order this The comté beignets. Dusted in parmesan and served with pickled walnut ketchup, which is basically a more well-read and worldly Daddies Sauce.

What’s the deal? Chef Henry Harris’s much-loved Racine – a French bistro in Knightsbridge which closed in 2015 – returned at the end of 2022 at the top of a 300-year-old boozer in Farringdon. The crowd, it’s fair to say, went wild. 

Why go? To enjoy a menu that is unashamedly French, with humble roots and an emphasis on hearty food. Fans of butter and cream, your time is now. 

Order this The tête de veau (‘calf’s head’): the veal is poached and soft, melting and rich, and eaten with dollops of mayo-like ravigote. Oof.

What’s the deal? The hyper-seasonal fare drifting out of the tiny kitchen of this bar-with-food, located in the warehouse of wine importer Gergovie, is startling: from takeaway sarnies (toasted cheese, elevated schnitzels) to larger (but still small) plates of painterly execution.

Why go? There are no reservations at 40 Maltby Street, making it the perfect place for swinging by unannounced and accidentally having one of the best meals of the year. 

Order this It might be bold to say ‘you can’t order badly’ here, but my gosh, you can’t order badly here. Jump at anything with smoked mackerel and pounce on anything which suggests it might be a fritter.

What’s the deal? A swooning modern Indian in swanky Mayfair which wrangles British produce into high-concept takes on subcontinental classics. Chef Chet Sharma is both a wicked cook and a trained physicist: disciplines he combines in niftily presented dishes like the outrageous house riff on a yoghurty Lahore chicken. 

Why go? Because you can pick your own with an à la carte lunch, or put your fate in Sharma’s trusty hands for the evening set menu. Either way, you’re on to a winner.

Order this The Wookey Hole cheese papad, and not just because of its excellent name.

What’s the deal? Over the past decade, head chef Shuko Oda’s Koya has become every bit as much of a Soho classic as the likes of L’Escargot, Quo Vadis and Andrew Edmunds. With its blond-wood counter, Koya evokes the traditional feel of a Japanese udon-ya, and is as much Tokyo as it is London. Innovative bowls of udon and rice porridge are the major draw. 

Why go? Because breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and Koya’s version is out of this world.  

Order this Koya’s take on the full english: a steaming bowl of thick, handmade udon noodles topped with a fried egg, smoky bacon and shiitake mushrooms.

What’s the deal? Despite its reputation as Hackney’s king of kofte, Mangal II faced post-Covid threats of worrying debts and closure. Sertaç Dirik took over the grill from dad Ali and with no great fuss turned Mangal II into a somewhat more bougie proposition, making the food – which was always great – more refined but still indulgent.

Why go? Can you really consider yourself a Londoner if you haven’t been to Mangal II at least once? 

Order this The cull yaw kofte takes dowdy old sheep meat – albeit from a hip Cornish farm – and applies it to the classic kebab lexicon, with honking success. Don’t miss the elegant mushroom manti and heroic tahini-and-apple tart, either.

What’s the deal? This fancy ex-courthouse turned cod-Palladian villa is one of London’s most beautiful restaurants. Honestly, if you’re talking date spots, then Sessions is a guaranteed smooch-maker. The food is just as attractive, with head chef Florence Knight’s simple, ingredient-led menu a thing of poetry: a single brown shrimp croquette, say, or a dish of lamb, champagne, celeriac and lovage. Consider us smitten.

Why go? Because not all restaurants look like this, hardly any, in fact. Careful, you might spend more time gazing at the artfully distressed walls than you do your companion. 

Order this The eel-and-potato dish is a menu staple: a kind of pressed, confit chip layered with smoked eel, and dotted with pearls of roe and edible flowers. Then score a sorbet to finish: at last look, blood orange was the offering, but we’ve had good times with the lemon one too.

What’s the deal? A wine-centric members’ club in a couple of Hackney railway arches, with a public restaurant – headed up by P Franco alumnus Seb Myers, no less – slinging wildly delicious French-leaning bits like calf’s brains on toast and tranches of monkfish with camomile and leeks. Ace plonk too, obviously. 

Why go? Planque means ‘hideaway’ in French, and that’s exactly the mood here. Come for a low-key but high-end experience in a spot that feels like a super-cool contemporary gallery.

Order this Anything off the hefty wine list: you’ll find plenty of low-intervention producers from France and Italy spanning lambics, bruts and rieslings. It’s a wine drinker’s clubhouse, after all.

What’s the deal? Majestic Malaysian cuisine on the Holloway Road. Sambal Shiok is chef owner Mandy Yin’s enduring neighbourhood joint, where soupy bowls of laksa noodles reign supreme, and crunchy sides of fried chicken and nutty gado gado salad are impossible to ignore. 

Why go? To experience the true meaning of comfort food. 

Order this The laksa, of course. Have it with tofu puffs, chicken, prawn, or even make it vegan. Ask for a serving of coconut milk on the side if you can’t take the heat. Nobody will judge you. Well, not too much. 

What’s the deal? You can’t order badly at Singburi, the excellent, much-loved neighbourhood Thai place in Leytonstone. Over the years, chef Sirichai Kularbwong has, rightfully, developed a loyal following. The standard menu of noodles and curries is hot, but the blackboard specials are where the real treasures lie. 

Why go? Bragging rights – it’s notoriously hard to get a table here, but when you do, you’ll want to tell everyone that you did. Do check its opening times however, last we checked the place was taking a break and was shut for the foreseeable, but fingers crossed they'll be back in business again soon. 

Order this The moo krob special: twice-fried crispy pork belly with garlic, basil and chilli.

What’s the deal? The elevator pitch is thus: Manteca is a blend of Trullo/Padella’s eye for ‘proper’, hand-rolled fresh pasta and St John’s cleaver-happy commitment to nose-to-tail minimal waste. The excellent menu skews both refined and rugged: what fool wouldn’t want to follow brown crab cacio e pepe with a stuffed pig’s snout?

Why go? Because you’re a bloodthirsty animal who also likes to make sure your flesh is served in a sustainable fashion. You’re tough and you’re mean, but you care, man.

Order this The pig-skin ragù – devised to reduce waste in the kitchen, buried under a blizzard of parmesan and crowned with cloud-light pork crackling. 

What’s the deal? A flame-licked British restaurant, inspired by the cooking of the Basque region, from hotshot Welsh chef Tomos Parry. The menu is almost satirically simple – spider crab toast, roast duck rice, beef tartare et al – but there’s not a single dud. 

Why go? Because it keeps getting better. Since opening in 2018, Brat has gone from strength to strength, carving out a place for itself as one of London’s most esteemed kitchens. You’ll see other chefs here, chowing down on exceptional fish. Post-lockdown it gave birth to an indoor/outdoor offering at Climpson’s Arch in London Fields.

Order this Grilled bread with anchovy is a desert-island dish of such renown that Paul Mescal gave it a shout-out on his episode of ‘Off Menu’. A punchy little legend.

What’s the deal? This two-floored contemporary trattoria is a Highbury institution, buzzing ever since it opened in 2010. It’s built a serious reputation for its fresh pasta, charcoal grilling and wicked fruit tarts. Pici cacio e pepe has been a staple since Trullo’s early days and remains a substantial delight. 

Why go? If everyone had a neighbourhood pasta place as good as Trullo, the world would undoubtedly be a better place. Thankfully, you don’t have to be a local to indulge yourself here.  

Order this The silky smooth slow-cooked beef shin ragù with melt-in-the-mouth pappardelle is the stuff of legend.

What’s the deal? These are hobs with history. Though Neil Borthwick might be in charge of kitchen proceedings now, in the 1990s the upper reaches of The French were home to both Fergus and Margot Henderson, before they peeled off to do St John and Rochelle Canteen respectively. The tradition of a bolthole for a boozy Soho lunch has remained, however, in Borthwick’s gutsy cooking. 

Why go? A better spot in London for knocking back red wine and redder meats has not yet been found. Find the daily menu on Instagram, full of hearty things with the faint hum of an abattoir: duck rillettes, crispy pig’s head, brawn, chicken-liver parfait and steak, glorious steak. 

Order this Confit garlic and goat’s curd on toast: satisfyingly smooshy.

What’s the deal? We’ve all got our very own Chinatown favourites, but it’s Four Seasons that tops personal lists more often than most. This traditional Cantonese joint offers mighty meat dishes as well as exemplary sweet and sour, lemon, and black bean sauces. The portions are generous, too. 

Why go? One of London’s most consistently buzzing neighbourhoods, a day out up West isn’t compete without a trip into Chinatown and the resulting feast. The options are almost endless, but Four Seasons never fails to impress. 

Order this Get stuck into the three pillars of Cantonese cuisine: roast duck, char siu pork and crispy pork.

What’s the deal? A bustling, smoky Isaan (north-eastern Thai) place that’ll calmly blow your head off and leave you begging for more. The raw beef laap with castelfranco and the sour mussel curry cut a heady line through the region’s cuisine. 

Why go? The intense vibe of the counter by the open kitchen is perfectly matched by the serious chops of the cooking. Looking for some serious heat? Kiln is calling. 

Order this Clay-pot-baked glass noodles with Tamworth pork belly and brown crab meat – one head-razing flavour after another.

What’s the deal? Chef Fadi Kattan’s Palestinian restaurant on a residential Notting Hill backstreet is a beaut inside: full of olive branches, you’ll feel like you’ve been given the key to a secret garden. A confident newcomer that’s free and creative in its expression and storytelling, it lets you sample perfect flaky pastry and musakhan: the chicken, sumac and sweet-onion jewel of Palestinian cuisine. 

Why go? While Akub isn’t the first proudly Palestinian restaurant in London, it is still a rare thing. Enjoy it. 

Order this Shish barak – parcels of delicately spiced pumpkin, which fall like ripe persimmon flesh from the irregular folds when bitten into.

What’s the deal? Sure, the Quality Chop House is great, but it’s usurped by the upstart sibling next door. Chef Nick Bramham knocks out a concise list of Italo-Spanish gems from a couple of hot plates. Cram in a pork-fat cannolo to finish.

Why go? To add some candle-lit drama to a casual meet up with pals. 

Order this Kick off with the Gildas: teeny skewers of anchovy, olive and pickled chilli, doused in decent oil. God’s own pintxos.

What’s the deal? This modern-Malaysian joint’s tiled premises in new venue Market Peckham aren’t the vibiest. But chef-owner Abby Lee more than makes up for that with her intensely flavoured dishes, served up in welcoming, casual style.

Why go? To prove that you don’t need to go to a posh restaurant to enjoy some seriously inspired cooking and pay your respects to the lovely people who make it.

Order this The black sarawak pepper chicken is a showstopping joy, taking hints from Abby’s grandmother’s own recipe.

What’s the deal? Run out of a small ex-pub, The Tamil Prince is a stylish south Indian joint run by two guys who worked together at cult Malay-Singaporean canai-and-curry basement joint Roti King. Head chef Prince Durairaj has taken inspiration from what makes Roti King so popular – bombastic, flavoursome cooking, centring spiritually on billowing, pliable roti – and ratcheted up the dining dimension. 

Why go? To see such delights as the channa bhatura, a chickpea curry accompanied by an inflated pufferfish-sized bread balloon. Honestly, you could whack a lightbulb in there and sell them in the Conran Shop. 

Order this Grilled tiger prawns in garlic masala. They are beauty, they are grace.

What’s the deal? Sustainability is a current foodie buzzword and it’s easy to see why. Local sourcing, waste reduction and other sustainable practices are sexy! Headed up by Dinner by Heston Blumenthal alumni Will Murray and Jack Croft, Fallow grows its own produce and does its own whole-animal butchery before offering it all up as nose-to-tail, root-to-stem cooking that champions modest British ingredients.  

Why go? It may sound simple, even frugal, but the food is anything but. Humble, often overlooked ingredients can make really rich, decadent grub and Fallow is here to make a fuss about them. 

Order this Corn ribs sprinkled with kombu, a signature dish from Fallow’s pop-up days.

What’s the deal? A Camberwell Chinese restaurant famous not just for its extremely reasonable prices, but for its fantastic foodie explorations into the north-west frontier province of Xinjiang. What attracts most people to Silk Road is the jovial canteen atmosphere and the mighty noodle and stew menu, featuring big plate chicken, a wonderfully rich star anise-and-chilli-flavoured broth bobbing with pieces of bird on the bone, plus potatoes and belt noodles. 

Why go? If it’s bargains you’re after, Silk Road can’t be beaten. Discover some of the best flavours in London for the best price. It is, heroically, BYOB too. 

Order this Xinjiang lamb shish roasted over charcoal is a steal at £1 per skewer. The best value mouthful of meat in town. 

What’s the deal? Chef Niklas Ekstedt is a big name in Sweden for his signature ‘old Nordic’ analogue techniques at his Michelin-starred restaurant in Stockholm. This long-awaited UK outpost does the same and relies entirely on wood-fired cooking: no electricity or gas. Monkfish is smoked in hay, mackerel is baked in embers and oysters are flambadou-ed in a metal cone. This is cavemen stuff done with oodles of class.  

Why go? Not only is the food sublime – rustic but elegant – but the venue is one a kind, the old former police HQ, Great Scotland Yard. The very definition of a fair cop. 

Order this The ‘Journey to Scandinavia’ nine-course tasting menu is a lofty £145 – with a wine pairing an additional £80 – but you’ll get to sample the vast range of Ekstedt’s talent for the price. And you'll leave smelling like a bonfire.

What’s the deal? This unassuming and reasonably priced little restaurant at the foot of the Emirates Stadium is best known for Xi’an (home of the Terracotta Army) street-food dishes and hand-pulled noodles. Sample juicy ru jian mo (pork burgers) and the crimson-red fiery big-plate chicken.

Why go It’s culter-than-cult and better-than-good. Don’t say you’re a London foodie if you haven’t munched here at least once. 

Order this Doused in hot oil, chopped garlic, spring onions and ground chilli, the signature slippery and bouncy Xi’an biang biang noodles are pure bliss.

What’s the deal? It’s one of Chinatown’s most recent inhabitants, but Speedboat Bar has already made a definite name for itself. Bright and boozy, it offers fun Thai food inspired by the canteens in Bangkok’s own Chinatown. Sweetcorn fritters are crunchy pop-in-the-mouth fun and chicken skins with zaep seasoning the very definition of zingy. 

Why go? Did we mention there’s a pool table upstairs? This is a drinker’s restaurant, with cocktails like the Magic Inhaler, a shot-glass version of St John’s notorious Dr Henderson – a potent Fernet-Branca/Crème de Menthe mash-up that shouldn’t work but very much does.

Order this Tom yam mama noodles with squid, pork and prawns, which come swimming in a creamy broth. This dish has serious big-bowl energy.

What’s the deal? A long-standing beacon of colourful Keralan cuisine on Stoke Newington’s main drag. This pink palace has been serving up sensational veggie curries and impressive dosas since the mid-1990s and it remains a bargain: not one dish is over a tenner.

Why go? Because these guys basically invented millennial pink long before millennial pink was a thing. Rasa doesn’t just have the finest south Indian food in town, but the sweetest decor.

Order this At £22.50, the vegetarian feast more than lives up to its name. You’ll get almost everything on the menu, with snacks, starters, curries, side dishes, rice, bread and sweets. A customisable banquet, they’ll let you include personal favourites, too.

What’s the deal? This family-run spot in Camberwell serves up some of the best Kurdish food in the city. Run by chef Pary Baban and her sons Rang and Raman, it’s a nourishing whirl of smoke, sumac and sweet, sweet baklava. 

Why go? Because if you like what you're eating, Pary runs local cooking classes where you can learn to make her delish dishes. 

Order this The house fries: picture-perfect chips flecked with tamarind-and-pink-yoghurt sauce, spices, sesame and herbs.

What’s the deal? An extremely enticing Indian-Irish fusion joint. The name may give ‘Irish pub in small European capital’, but get past that and, courtesy of talented chef Sacha Henry and smiley, front-of-house mixologist Eoghan, you’re in for treat after treat after treat.

Why go? The warm atmosphere is as much of a draw as the food. Eoghan is the sort of guy who pulls up a chair to explain the menu. Sacha comes out of the kitchen – a former bookies’ office – to tell you what each dish is. 

Order this Cauli cheese: it’s a paratha, stuffed with cheese and drizzled with cauliflower curry. Simple and served like a quesadilla, it’s not one to share, despite the fact that it’s meant to be a sharing plate.

What’s the deal? Hankering for a feed in what might be Soho’s prettiest (and, likely, smallest) basement? You’re in luck: This Michelin-starred bunker ticks all those boxes. Since the start of 2023 James Goodyear – who used to be head chef at Hide Above, another Michelin-starred restaurant – has been in charge.

Why go? To feel special. We all like to feel special, don’t we? And there’s nowt more special than being taken care of at a 12-seat counter. 

Order this There’s a set tasting menu so you get what you’re given. 

What’s the deal? This tucked-away family-run restaurant in Korean culinary destination New Malden is well worth the trip to Zone 4. In understated and cramped surroundings, it serves up reasonably priced and stone-cold-killer Korean comfort food classics.

Why go? For authentic kimchi-jjigae stew, beef bulgogi and stir-fried udon noodles.

Order this The signature saengseon jjim braised whiting in an addictive sweet and spicy sauce with vegetables. A portion of white rice to soak up all the juices is a must.

What’s the deal? London’s first – and only – Nigerian tapas restaurant, no less. Run by brother-and-sister duo Emeka and Ifeyinwa, its London-via-Lagos twists on classic dishes, from jollof quinoa to plantain waffles, are extremely vegan-friendly (but there’s meat and fish on offer too). 

Why go? From its 2016 pop-ups to opening this Tottenham bricks-and-mortar in 2020, Chuku’s rise – and the way the local community rallied around it at the end of last year when the threat of closure was on the horizon – has been inspirational. 

Order this Dodo – fried plantain in cinnamon sugar and coconut. Order two portions.

What’s the deal? A vibey live-fire hangout in a dusty car park next to 40FT Brewery and Dusty Knuckle bakery. This is barbecue, but not as you know it, with veggies the star of the show. Expect sexy sharing plates of grilled leeks with pistachio, and strangely enticing charred cauliflower graced with guindilla chillies. There’s not much meat on the seasonal changing menu at all, but what is there is responsibly sourced. 

Why go? If you want to join a cult but can’t be doing with all that robe-wearing and would rather pledge your faith with some fabulous fire-licked food.

Order this Score their heavenly house flatbread topped with Acme’s own ‘Marmite’ butter, which is made with leftover beer yeast from the brewery next door. 

What’s the deal? The king of London curry houses, the family-run Lahore Kebab House offers excellent Punjabi-style tandoori grilled meat, generous portions of ghee-laden curry, piles of sweet onion bhajia and heavily spiced lamb chops. 

Why go? Bargain prices, attentive service and BYOB make Lahore Kebab House one of the good guys. 

Order this The creamy and dreamy one-pot chicken haleem is bliss in a bowl.  

What’s the deal? The River Café is a London celebrity in its own right. Opened in 1987 by Ruth Rogers and the late Rose Gray, it has built its reputation by serving unfussy yet stunning Italian food. Oh, and training the likes of Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall along the way. Prices are excruciating, but portions are generous and the quality is always high. 

Why go? To order a plate of pasta and live like the A-listers do.

Order this Taglierini al pomodoro: basically pasta and tomato sauce, but it’s the toothiest pasta and most complex tomato sauce ever.

What’s the deal? A glorious fusion of Asian, African and Middle Eastern cuisines from food writer Ravinder Bhogal, whose charming culinary surprises include a prawn toast scotch egg with banana ketchup.

Why go? Despite the posh Marylebone location, nothing about Jikoni is prissy or pretentious. The food may come with a sizeable price tag, but Bhogal’s homely and joyful cooking will leave you feeling more than full.

Order this The Keralan hake and clam moilee. If we could drink a pint of that glossy, golden, coconut-y sauce, or better yet, take a bath in it, we would. It’s sweet but not cloying, and oh-so-silky. Soak up the oodles of sauce with some sticky lemon rice.

What’s the deal? This sister to popular small-plates restaurant Primeur offers a menu that’s lighter and brighter than its sibling’s. Scrawled on a blackboard, the modern European line-up changes daily.

Why go? To eat from a seriously magic neighbourhood menu, featuring a lively blend of fish, meat and unusual veg, served up on a mix of communal tables and cosy banquettes. You'll think you're in Soho, rather than Holloway.

Order this The menu changes on the regs, but it usually features some form of croquette – these never disappoint – as well as lovely little snacky starters like jamon and Provençal chickpea fries aka panisse.

What’s the deal? Former Nopi and Berber & Q chef Luke Findlay’s idiosyncratic and playful take on Japanese cuisine. Ham, egg and chips mazemen might cause a few raised eyebrows, but this isn’t simply stunt food. After the success of its Dalston spot, this second branch sits on the Rye Lane site previously occupied by much-loved Mexican joint Taco Queen.

Why go? Seriously, where else are you going to get a cheeseburger mazesoba? Come here for aged-beef-fat noodles and a smashed beef patty smothered in burger sauce, American cheese and white sesame.

Order this The blooming onion: deep-fried and served with miso mustard, Kewpie mayo and pear hot sauce. It’s vegan to boot.

What’s the deal? A quietly confident fish and seafood-focused outing from Jackson Boxer of Brunswick House fame. 

Why go? Notting Hill is cool again, don’t you know? Orasay is full of people having a good time: couples on dates, gaggles of mates. Go to bask in such joyful conviviality. 

Order this Boxer knows his way around Brixham crab. Try the tagliolini with preserved lemon and chilli, and if you’re there in the early evening, make the most of the happy hour oyster deal. 

What’s the deal? This much-loved Neal’s Yard restaurant boasts a delectable modern-day Jerusalem menu served up at a horseshoe-shaped counter bar. The menu, sweetly, is split into ‘land’, ‘sea’ and ‘earth’. Pudding is, fittingly, ‘heaven’; try the Knafeh and you’ll see just why. 

Why go? The atmosphere is electric, the air filled with charcoal smoke, music and laughter. It’s a place to fall joyously, head over heels, lightning-bolts-R-us in love with.

Order this Mechoui octo houmous: a charred, tender tentacle served in a swirl of chickpeas in cured lemon and parsley with a splash of spiced lamb jus. Magic.