The real taste of Thailand transplanted to a CBD carpark, Soi 38 had us at the boat noodles. Lurking in a pungent soup broth with a host of add-ons (braised pork or beef, a pork ball and crackling, bean sprouts and coriander), the springy noodles are big on flavour and even bigger on comfort. Boat noodles aren’t on the menu by night, but the Thai barbecue and hotpot provide ample consolation, albeit one cloaked in the agony of indecision. Will it be the pork skewers known as moo ping, the swatches of golden calamari with a pungent lime-forward dipping sauce, or the bright papaya salad thrumming with the edible funk of salted crab and a heavy slosh of fish sauce?
Gone are the days when all you could find by way of Thai food in Melbourne was pad thai, beef massaman or chicken satay. You can still find these things, yes, but the selections have expanded further to encompass all sorts of regional variations of Thai food – so much so, everyone has opinions on where their favourite iteration of boat noodles, Thai barbecue and oyster omelette is made. Strap in, ready your tastebuds for an explosion of tantalising flavours, and work your way through our round-up of the best Thai restaurants in Melbourne.