Gastronomic Heavyweight Gaggan has always been associated with the fine-dining aspect, which is why many expected his recentlyopened wine bar, Wet, to resemble the elegant lounges at five-star hotels. On the contrary, Wet is fun and laidback, showcasing Gaggan’s take on the currently trendy natural wine bar concept.
Taking up space right next to the white mansion occupied by Gaggan, Wet goes against the grain of your typical wine bar. The entrance takes guests by surprise, marked by bathroom cubicle doors that open up to reveal a squat toilet and urinal—sights you typically encounter at dodgy gas station. (Gunn Leelhasuwan, who’s also responsible for the cheeky look of Teens of Thailand and Asia Today, let his imagination run wild yet again at Wet.) One of the cubicle doors, however, gains you access to the two-story bar, where a combination of wooden roof truss, bare concrete walls, and colorful cushions—all bathed in an eerie red LED glow—set the mood for secret rendezvous or intimate get-togethers.
Gaggan’s sommelier, Vladimir Kojic, oversees the space, and is more than happy to explain his passion for natural wine to customers, be they wine newbies or connoisseurs. Most of the selections were chosen by Vladimir himself from small vineyards, usually in the Central and Eastern European regions, that make wine with native yeast and without additional chemicals. “Natural wine is very fragile and cannot stay open for a long time,” says Vladimir to explain why by-the-glass options are limited. What they have, however, is quite impressive, including six reds (the cheapest is the medium-bodied Meinklang Blaufrankisch from Burgenland in Austria, B380), seven whites (try Sébastien Riffault “Saulétas” from Sancerre in France, B520) and two sparkling options. When prompted, the sommelier will eagerly tell you stories about the winemakers and their philosophies on wine. “There is no wine without the person behind it,” Vladimir adds.
Also taking centerstage is a set of bar fare that’s likely only a step down from the food served at Gaggan’s fine-dining altar. Helming the kitchen is Indian chef, Pranav Upadhyay, who trained at Gaa, the other Gaggan offshoot. At Wet, Chef Pranav churns out the likes of crispy papdi chaat laden in yogurt with shishito pepper, tamarind and pomegranate (B390), and a smoky coleslaw with cabbage, green tomatoes and pomelo (B290). To give white prawn an elevated bar food element, Pranav combines it with curry leaves from Chettinad and coconut (B590). Curry and rice also stars in the menu, but rotate on a regular basis. The chicken tikka masala (B390) served on our visit was quite delightful.
Wet is both an entertaining and educational visit (time to brush up on your knowledge on natural wine). The place is the perfect spot for a relaxed pre-prandial drink, yet is also ideal as a lively post-dinner option once the music becomes more upbeat later in the night
