Bangkok's best bit: Mahakarn Fort

Saranyu Nokkaew
Written by
Saranyu Nokkaew
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Back in the reign of King Rama I, 14 forts were built around Rattanakosin Island in order to protect the city. Now, Mahakan Fort is one of the only two that have survived the test of time and has become one of the main tourist attractions in Bangkok’s Old Town. Behind the fort’s white wall lies one of the city’s oldest communities, where generations have lived for more than a hundred years. This community, however, is being expropriated by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration in order to build a public park. (The idea, as expected doesn’t sit well with the residents who have lived here for decades.) So you may want visit the area while it’s still there.

Mahakan Fort community from outside
A peaceful alley in Mahakan Fort community

Eat here

Take a trip back to the old days with a meal at Sutatip Hainanese Food. The Thai vermicelli with roasted pork in tomato sauce is a must, while the roasted beef and roasted beef tongue, both of which melt in your mouth, are dishes that carnivores shouldn’t miss. 338-342 at the base of Naris Dumrus Bridge, 0 2282 4313. Open Tue-Sun 08:00-15:00

Roasted beef noodle at Suthathip

For dinner, Thip Samai, a legendary joint remains a worthy spot for one of the best pad Thai in Bangkok. Expect to queue up to an hour. 313 Maha Chai Road, 0 2221 6280. Open Tue-Sun 17:30-02:00

Padthai at Thipsamai
Thipsamai

Drink here

In the mood for drip drinks? Visit Holiday by Café Velodome where they serve Thai drip tea and lemon tea, as well as drip coffee. Once
Again Hostel, 22 Samran Rat Road, 09 2620 5445. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-20:00 and Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00

Drip coffee at Cafe Velodome

 

Kope Hya Tai Ke is an old-school coffee shop located in a peaceful neighborhood nearby. Traditional Thai coffee from home-roasted coffee beans is a must-try. You can also refresh with creative drinks like sugar cane-infused coffee and Ceylon-infused coffee. 78/4 Prachathipatai Road, 0 2629 0646. Open daily 05:00-15:00

Traditional Thai coffee at Kope Hya Tai Ke
Traditional Thai breakfast at Kope Hya Tai Ke

Shop here

At the end of Maha Chai Road is Ban Bat Community, the only place in Thailand that makes and supplies monks’ alms bowls. The tiny bowls
make for an interesting souvenir. Ban Bat Lane, 0 2223 8093 and 0 2223 7970. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00

Alms bowls in the making

 

Nang Loy Traditional Thai Fragrance is another place to visit if you want some real Thai gifts that are out of the ordinary. 217-223 Maha Chai Road, 0 2221 0465. Open daily 08:00-17:00

Nang Loy traditional Thai fragrance
Nang Loy Traditional Thai Fragrance shop

A market selling amulets and Buddha statues in Wat Ratchanadda offers much more than just religious knick-knacks and images. Souvenir ideas include khon (classical masked dance) masks delicately made by hand. 2 Maha Chai Road. Open daily 09:00-17:00

Craftsman finishes up khon mask

See here

Mahakan Fort Community is filled with history. Its charms can be found in the old wooden houses that line its streets, its prolific residents and vibrant atmosphere. The community still makes traditional Thai musical instruments, pottery and various folkcraft as they have been for more than a century.

Entrance to Mahakan Fort community
Locals play traditional folk music
Mahakan Fort is one of the very few places to buy handmade bird cages in Bangkok
Handmade clay amulets

Come at twilight to witness the beauty of Loha Prasat, the world’s only metal-spiked mansion. 2 Maha Chai Road, 0 2224 8807. Open daily 08:30-18:00

Loha Prasat

Wat Thepthidaram is another Bangkok gem. Here, you’ll see Chinese-influenced architecture and old Chinese ballast dolls. It was also, at one point, the residence of Sunthorn Phu, the greatest poet in Thai history. His personal belongings are displayed at a museum in the temple. 70 Maha Chai Road, 0 2621 1178

Or take the easy option and book an enjoyable, pocket-friendly tour with Once Again Hostel.

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