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Bangkok's dining scene has seen its fair share of French-Japanese restaurants come and go. Hippopotoshi, the newest opening on Soi Ruamrudee near Ploenchit, takes a different approach entirely. The chef behind it, Hitoshi Komatsu, has spent years in the kitchens that make grown men cry. We're talking three Michelin-starred restaurants in France and those notoriously impossible-to-book Tabelog Gold rated places in Tokyo's Ginza district.
But here's the thing about Bangkok diners. We've become pretty savvy about what good food should taste like, and we can spot someone trying to charge Michelin prices for mediocre cooking from a mile away.
Komatsu seems to understand this. Instead of recreating that high pressure fine dining experience, he's opened a place that feels refreshingly normal for the neighbourhood. Soi Ruamrudee has always been that area where embassy staff, expats and local Bangkokians mix, where you can find everything from street food to hotel restaurants within a five minute walk. This fits right into that energy. Classic French techniques, Japanese precision, but served in a way that feels like it belongs in Bangkok rather than trying to pretend it's somewhere else.
What the place feels like
The atmosphere is casual in the best possible way. No white tablecloths making you nervous about spilling something, no waiters hovering ominously over your shoulder. Just a comfortable space where you can actually relax and focus on what matters, which is the food and whoever you're eating with.
The staff are genuinely friendly rather than performing some weird formal service ritual. They know their menu inside out and seem happy to guide you through it without being pushy. The wine list is impressive too, with over 200 labels to choose from. Glasses, none of that nonsense about wine needing to breathe for exactly 17 minutes before you're allowed to drink it. They've got the right equipment and they know how to use it, but they're not precious about it.
Location-wise, you're right in central Bangkok on Soi Ruamrudee, a quick walk from BTS Ploenchit. There's parking if you're driving, which is always a bonus in this part of town. The whole setup just works. It's the kind of place where you could bring your parents, your mates or someone you're trying to romance, and all of them would have a good time.
The food that actually matters
The maguro hoho steak (B690) uses tuna cheek, which is one of those cuts you rarely see because each fish only has two of them. The texture is something else – soft but with this pleasant bounce to it, and the flavour has that deep ocean quality that good tuna should have. The chef sears it in a pan with herbs until the outside gets crispy, then finishes it with a caper sauce that's got butter, garlic and tomatoes in it. The sauce adds this mellow sourness that cuts right through the fattiness and makes everything taste even more like the sea. Comes with ratatouille on the side, which sounds basic but somehow never disappoints when it's done right.
Poulet roti (B690) is roasted chicken that's been marinated with herbs until they've properly got into the meat. They roast it until the skin renders down and loses all its excess fat, then smoke the whole thing with straw for extra aroma. Gets finished with a rich chicken jus and arrives with creamy mashed potatoes and baby carrots. It's straightforward cooking, but that's exactly why it works. No tricks, just proper technique.
The saumon marine (B450) marinates fresh salmon with coriander flowers, lemon, orange, salt and black pepper until the fish turns silky and aromatic. Then it gets topped with beetroot jelly and served with wasabi espuma and paprika mousse, which add different layers of heat. The paprika mousse sauce works particularly well against the richness of the salmon, giving you this contrast that keeps things interesting.
Three types of seasonal wild mushrooms get charcoal-grilled for the baked wild mushroom with foie gras (B590). Light seasoning lets you taste what you're actually eating, which seems obvious but plenty of restaurants forget this. A generous piece of foie gras adds serious richness, and the whole thing gets finished with a teriyaki sauce that brings a mellow sweetness to balance everything out.
Even the burrata tomato salad (B450), which could easily be boring, becomes something worth ordering. Multicoloured tomatoes get seasoned with vinegar, honey and salt for this sweet and sour thing, then paired with creamy burrata cheese. Tomato sauce adds depth and a bit of spice. It's the dish that reminds you how good simple ingredients can be when someone actually knows what they're doing with them.
Worth making the trip
Proper cooking that doesn't take itself too seriously, serious technique without the theatre, prices that make sense when you see what arrives at your table. Whether you're planning a full evening of eating and drinking or just want to try a few dishes and see what the fuss is about, the whole setup works. Chef Komatsu has managed to create something that feels both thoughtful and easygoing, which is harder than it sounds.
The restaurant opens Tuesday through Sunday from 4pm until 11pm and closes every Monday.
You can find it at 15/2 Woodberry Common, Building B 1st Floor on Soi Ruamrudee in Bangkok, with parking available on site.
For reservations call 082-547-7005 or email reservation@hippopotoshi.com, or book through their website at www.hippopotoshi.com