It's not hard to see why Thailand's long-awaited high-speed rail project has turned into such a drawn-out saga. The promise is grand: sleek trains hurtling north from Bangkok to Nong Khai, crossing the Mekong into Laos, then gliding on to Kunming and eventually Beijing. In theory, it's the stuff of glossy tourism videos and diplomatic speeches – a link between kingdoms and economies. In practice, it's a work in progress that's dragged on for over a decade and is still only halfway there.
Officials now say the first leg, a 253-kilometre route from Bangkok to Nakhon Ratchasima, could open by 2028. The second phase, stretching to Nong Khai, might follow in 2031, with a bridge linking Thailand's network to the Laos-China line. The numbers are staggering – B434 billion, 609 kilometres, years of revisions – but the stakes are higher still. This isn't just a transport story; it's about whether Thailand can keep pace with its fast-developing neighbours.
'High-speed rail is expensive to build and operate,' says Thomas Bird, Time Out Bangkok's resident train expert and author of Harmony Express: Travels By Train Through China. 'It is not always profitable and some lines – as is the case in the People's Republic of China – have to be subsidised by the government. However, there are many economic benefits associated with modern rail. Fast and efficient connections can expedite trade and tourism. As China is Thailand's biggest trade partner and most important source of tourists, this is a no-brainer.'
Thailand's economic slowdown has made the case for rail investment even louder. Bird reckons the project won't fix things on its own, but it could be a catalyst. 'A twenty-first-century, first-class transport infrastructure will lubricate business dealings, accelerate trade and tourism, and make a transport hub of Bangkok,' he says. 'Vietnam, which is chasing Thailand economically, has committed to building two high-speed lines. Thailand cannot afford to fall behind.'
If completed, the railway will also slice through Isan, Thailand's oft-overlooked northeast. It's a region rich in culture and history, but one that's been left out of most tourist itineraries. Bird sees potential for places like Khon Kaen and Udon Thani to reinvent themselves. 'If these cities are smart, they'll use the new rail to develop their tourist economies by making it far easier to reach regional attractions.'
The real question is who can actually afford to ride it. In China, high-speed rail stays accessible through regulated fares, while slower 'green trains' serve budget travellers. Bird warns Thailand to take note. 'In my country, the UK, private companies operate trains. The market has driven prices into the stratosphere and made rail travel unaffordable for many. Thailand will need smart price controls to ensure this doesn't happen once high-speed rail becomes operational.'
For now, the project's steel skeleton is still being assembled across provinces, tunnels and rice fields. The trains will come later, the glossy promotional videos later still. But when they do, the hope – and perhaps the challenge – will be making sure this isn't just a shiny line for diplomats and business travellers, but something that actually works for the country it crosses.