Time Out says
An innovative Charoenkrung eatery that brings local produce to the fore
What the "law of the vital few" — the theory claming that roughtly 80 percent of result is mainly triggered by 20 percent of all the causes — teaches us is not to underestimate anybody, even the underdogs.
In this case, the underdogs would be three newcomers in the restaurant scene who opened up a humble eatery, gave it a cool name, and since then helped transformed the slumbering Charoenkrung neighborhood into one of the city's rising hotspots.
Sharing space with Old Town hostel, 80/20 tries its best to blend in with the lodging's retro inclinations, incorporating wrought iron details and refurbished wood in its decor. Step through the door and you're greeted with an animated open kitchen and chalkboards filled with names of drool-worthy goodies.
Rising chef Napol Jantraget leads the enthusiastic kitchen team, which rolls out dishes that play around the eatery's principle — 80 percent of the ingredients used here are sourced either from local sustainable suppliers or nearby markets. Kick off your meal with the piquant lamb tartare that's given an Isan touch with spicy and sour condiments, a fragrant green herbal sauce and a garnishing of cruncy crumbled crickets (B290). We can't stop raving about the duck breast (B480), delicately smoked with tea and served with pumpkin presented in different forms (the pumpkin ravioli stuffed with duck rillettes is our favorite). Meals are perfectly paired with cocktails that expertly carry the same 80/20 approach, like Yin Yang (B290), a drink that mixes sesame-infused vodka with rice vinegar and syrup made from black sticky rice.
The desserts are equally satisfying. Chocolate lovers won't have the heart to turn down a sinful indulgence that pairs decadent dark and white chocolate mousse with jasmine tea and chili ice-cream.
Call in advance if you'd like to try chef Napol's tasting menu (around B2,000).
|Opening hours:||Wed-Fri 18:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00 18:00-23:00, Mon 18:00-23:00|