Time Out says
The popular Charoenkrung dining den takes local ingredients on another creative ride.
The trend in elevating indigenous ingredients has been seen in Bangkok’s dining scene for years. But only a few fine-dining players have managed to produce results that maximize the complex flavors of each ingredient, at the same time shed light on their origins.
80/20, the well-known Michelin-starred restaurant steered by Chef Napol Jantraget and Chef Saki Hoshino, has long been a destination for epicureans looking to experience a ground-breaking approach to local produce. The restaurant excels in presenting the many different possibilities of Thai cuisine, serving creations that leverage fresh produce and results of fermentation experiments done at the restaurant’s in-house culinary lab.
The 10-course seasonal pre-monsoon menu (B3,000++) is currently on offer, and it merges familiar dishes (a sigh of relief for die-hard 80/20 fans like us) and some new creations. Chill from the Southern Sea, an 80/20 staple, has been given a tweak and in the most positive way. The dish includes small bites of fresh brine corbia dressed with roasted chili paste, young mango and mango leather, and a clam tartlet bursting with umami flavor.
A photogenic “sandwich” features the interesting combination of garlicky crispy wafer, gourd, tadaeng chili paste, salted yolk and white meringue. This is followed by a red tail mystu that’s smoked with lychee wood, and flavored with zesty herbs and citrus fruits.
The main dish is served sumrub-style (for sharing), and features a spicy phla salad of Jasmine Thai Wagyu beef—the cows are fed with jasmine rice—with Chef Joe’s version of Korat curry, which mixes smoked dry chili, ox tail and deep-fried betel leaf. Braised eggplant helps temper down the heat.
The desserts deserve a standing ovation. We particularly love Chef Saki’s interpretation of guava with salted plum powder, and mango and sticky rice. These popular street snacks are presented in ways you wouldn’t imagine.
|Opening hours:||Wed-Thu 18:00-22:00, Fri-Sun 11:00-14:30, 18:00-22:00|