Three years ago, the name Chudaree “Tam” Debhakham wouldn’t ring a bell. It wasn’t until 2020, when she bagged top honors in the first season of Top Chef Thailand, that the 30-something chef became known to food lovers and reality show buffs across the kingdom as the Chef Tam.
Her popularity only increased when she put up modern Thai restaurant Baan Tepa. Set in a large converted compound on busy Ramkhamhaeng, Baan Tepa is where the skillfull chef prepares “creative Thai cuisine” that takes inspiration from local ingredients and recipes.
Chef Tam’s latest multi-course menu, for instance, perfectly embodies her commitment to coming up with unique dishes that you can’t find anywhere else. The meal starts off with you being escorted into Baan Tepa's kitchen where you can get a glimpse of the bustling working space and be regaled with the story behind the restaurant's latest offering. You are also given with a flavorful appetizer while listening to Chef Tam introduce her place.
The real deal starts off with the three-bite Heart of Thailand, a chilli paste that pays tribute to the culinary staple found in every part of Thailand. Nature’s Giving comes next, a salad dish that makes the most of plant-based ingredients, followed closely by Tepa’s Tostada, a reimagined salad that focuses on local giant trevally.
In Crab Crab Crab!, Chef Tam deep-fries soft-shelled crab from Trang and serves it with spicy custard made with blue swimmer crab from Surat Thani. Meanwhile, Street Cart Chicken Liver and Jaew reworks chicken pâté by injecting fiery Isaan dipping sauce into mushy liver, and serving it with crispy brioche.
Other global cuisines are are explored in Dong Dang, a pasta dish served with lon sauce made with ham and coconut; and Down South River Prawn Roti, an Indian-inspired offering that pairs rice roti with hot southern Thai curry and juicy river prawns from Surat Thani.
The menu is steered back to Thailand with Gaeng Pruh, which recalls Isan’s “lesser known” hot soup made with fermented fish and many pungent herbs. To help tone down the heat, you’re served the flavorful and visually appealing Abalone Color Spectrum Rice along with the soup.
The main course is Stuffed Duck, prepared using a recipe from the cookbook of Than Pu Ying Gleeb, a “pioneer in her time” who used French cooking techniques with Thai ingredients. The dish is reminiscent of turkey served during Thanksgiving.
Save some room for dessert—the Fruit of the Season palate cleanser (it was lychee granita on our visit) and Isaan Wild Almond and All of a Banana, which serves beignets made with the two ingredients with a scoop of ice cream.
The current 12-course tasting menu at Baan Tepa is priced at B4,500++.
