Unagi Kurofune BKK
Photograph: Unagi Kurofune BKK
Photograph: Unagi Kurofune BKK

Bangkok’s top 5 unagi dons for serious eel lovers

Bangkok’s unagi game is way stronger than most people realise. There’s something oddly satisfying about unagi don.

Toey Sarunrat
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Bangkok’s unagi game is way stronger than most people realise. There’s something oddly satisfying about unagi don. Maybe it’s the way the sweet glaze coats the charred eel skin.

Over the past few years, a wave of unagi-focused joints, many with real Japanese roots, has spread around town, and they’re doing the dish serious justice. We’ve rounded up five restaurants where the eel is fresh and the grill marks aren’t only for show.

  • Phrom Phong

This is the Tokyo-born brand that’s been feeding Bangkok’s eel cravings for over six years, located right in Phrom Phong. The key detail is that they grill all their unagi over a custom charcoal setup, with both the eel and ingredients imported from Japan, and it absolutely makes a difference. That smokey aroma hits you before the bowl even lands on your table. The sauce isn’t overly sweet and clings to the eel like it belongs there.

They serve everything from a single-piece of Unadon at just B180 to a whole unagi body in the Bikkuriju set B700, which is a steal compared to what you’d pay for this much eel in Japan. If you’re into hitsumabushi, the Nagoya-style way of eating chopped unagi over rice in three stages that ends with a pour of hot broth, they’ve got that too.The soup-on-rice thing might sound strange, but the contrast of smoky skin and warm broth is surprisingly addictive. Portion-wise, it’s just right, enough rice, enough eel, and no guilt for going big on a weekday.

591, 11-12 Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana. 088 575 8788. Open daily 10am-9pm.

  • Phrom Phong

Kurofune is trending now, and food nerds in the know are already flocking to this Sukhumvit 31 spot. The menu leans traditional, but with a few wildcards, like fuwafuwa butter, spun and melted onto the eel tableside. It’s a gimmick that works well. The butter doesn’t overwhelm; it softens the edges of the tare sauce and brings out the fatty sweetness of the eel.

Try the Unaju set with chawanmushi and soup; the eel is crispy on the outside, still tender inside. And if you’re going all in, the Tokujo set (B1,200) gives you a full body and a half of unagi. Big portions, big flavour, and enough variety to keep things interesting.

24, 1/F, Sukhumvit 31 Klongtan-nua, Watthana, Bangkok. 061-134-7789. Open daily 11am-3pm, 5.30-9pm.

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  • Japanese
  • Phrom Phong

Now this one’s for purists. Yondaime Kikukawa is the place where the chef still personally grills every eel over imported binchotan charcoal, and you can taste this precision in every bite. What makes this spot truly special is that the eel is imported but kept fresh in a pond right behind the restaurant before being prepared. The skin is blistered just right, with no trace of sogginess.

You get to choose between eel with or without sauce. The experience is crisp, fatty fish with a clean, smoky depth. This place also does something most others don’t, eel liver. If you’ve never tried it, it’s a revelation, slightly chewy, no fishiness, glazed in a sweet reduction. The unagi here is also noticeably large; it’s fresh, not frozen, and you can tell.

The HELIX SKY DINING, The EmQuartier, 5A03, 6/F, 693 Sukhumvit Rd, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana. 092-563-6222. Open daily 10am-10pm.

  • Japanese
  • Charoennakhon

Unagi Toku picked ICONSIAM as the only overseas outpost outside Japan. That says a lot about how seriously they take quality control. Every month, the head chef from Japan flies in, bringing live eel and doing the prep himself. There’s a reason for that: eel is notoriously tricky to cut and grill without losing texture.

They use only fresh eel where possible, and even the frozen stuff comes from their own farms. Grilling is done over binchotan charcoal in three rounds, which is key for keeping the soft flesh intact while crisping the edges. The tare sauce here is a family secret, aged and thick enough to soak into every layer of the fish.

299, 4/F, Siam Takashimaya 5, Charoen Nakhon, Khlong Ton Sai, Khlong San. 02-288-0203. Open daily 11am-9pm. 

 

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  • Phrom Phong

Unagi Sanya is one of those under-the-radar places that’s been around longer than the hype cycle. Fifteen years, to be exact. They only use large, fresh-cut eel, not the pre-marinated stuff, and the difference is obvious the moment your bowl hits the table. The eel is steamed before grilling, which helps reduce oiliness and makes the bones soft enough that you don’t even notice them.

The sauce has been simmered and refined for over 15 years, thick and not overly sweet. They also serve solid sashimi, which is a rare bonus for an eel spot. It’s the kind of place you’ll quietly recommend to friends.

1, 12 Soi Sukhumvit 39, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana. 089-005-1199. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm. Closed Monday.

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