Dan Bark was an unexpected but welcome face at Bangkok’s first Michelin Guide awards ceremony. The Korean-American chef, who’s worked with Chef Curtis Duffy at famed Chicago restaurant Grace, earned his first Michelin star churning out progressive American fare at Upstairs.
After letting go of their interests at Upstairs, Dan and his partner Fay Tragoolvongse proceeded to open up another restaurant. Tucked on Soi Pridi Banomyong 25, Cadence is an elegantly dressed affair—a complete contrast to the homey simplicity of Upstairs. Expect an elegant curve banquette, contemporarily styled chandeliers, and soft hues with touches of gold.
At this new restaurant, Chef Dan has found a new stage to showcase his talent and vision. A 15-course menu is a testament to how he has stepped up his game. Each course demonstrates a delicate balance of subtle flavors and delivers a more elevated dining experience.
A standout starter of Argentinian red shrimp benefits from the refreshing acidity of kaffir lime milk, calamansi and pickled cucumber. The salty flavors of salmon roe and the pungent spice of horseradish combine to cut through the sourness. To follow up, Chef Dan serves puréed English pea with cantaloupe compressed with lavender tea, and prosciutto. A side of fried glass noodles gives the scrumptious dish an element of crunch.
In one main course, Dan draws from memories of his childhood and serves his take on Korean barbecue. The beef dish features Ocean Beef rib-eye, a New Zealand import that has a naturally salty flavor, due to the fact that this particular cattle feeds on grass that grows by the ocean. Grilled to perfection, the meat is served with modern versions of ssam-jang (Korean dipping sauce) and banchan (Korean side dishes).
The talented chef is also a whiz at desserts. A post-meal offering makes use of chocolate from three different origins, their decadence complemented by semi-dehydrated pickled beetroot, thickened almond milk and truffles.
For a more elevated dining experience, opt for the wine-pairing option, which includes New World or Old World wines chosen by by Chicago-hailing sommelier Charity Waltenbaugh. The compound where Cadence is located will also house a more casual counterpart called Caper by Dan Bark. This one will serve up fuss-free offerings meant for sharing and cocktails mixed under the counsel of bar director Chris Simon.
