Charoen Saeng Silom

Down a narrow alley opposite Soi Charoen Krung 49, this open-air legend has been doing one thing since 1959: pork trotters. The work starts the afternoon before, when whole knuckles, trotters and intestines go into a sweet, five-spice gravy and simmer overnight until the collagen breaks down and the skin turns glossy, almost lacquered, then practically dissolves over rice.

Pick your cut – whole trotter, lean leg or  thoroughly cleaned intestines – and the kitchen sends it out with a house-made dipping sauce of pounded bird's eye chillies, garlic and white vinegar that cuts straight through the richness. Everything is cooked in one batch per day and the best pieces go quickly, so arriving before noon is less a tip than a rule.

Dishes to order: Stewed pork trotter (kha mu) over steamed jasmine rice.

Price range: B50-150

492/6 Soi Charoen Krung 49, Bang Rak. Open Mon-Sat 7.30am-1pm