Bangkok is inundated with fine-dining establishments, ranging from critically-acclaimed mainstays to ambitious star-catching newbies. However, very few, in our experience, manages to deliver the complete fine-dining package—quality and flavors on a plate, an amazing overall ambiance and seamless service dispensed by knowledgeable staff.
Chef’s Table, the latest addition to Lebua hotel’s swanky F&B offerings, impressively excels in all the criteria required of a haute cuisine restaurant. The fact that it’s located on the 61st floor and helmed by a chef who used to work at a three-Michelin star restaurant are just icing on the cake. Very sweet icing, to be exact.
Hailing from the Loire Valley, chef de cuisine Vincent Thierry is no stranger to the fine-dining scene, with a portfolio that boasts experience at the prestigious Le Cinq Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris and head chef status at Caprice restaurant in Four Seasons Hong Kong, which received three Michelin stars while under his supervision. Here at Chef’s Table, Chef Vincent, with help from sous chef Pierre Chomet, showcases French classics that rely on the flavors of locally-sourced produce, except for meats and other proteins, which are imported from Europe to maintain a desired premium quality in the dining experience.
The presence of a star figure in the kitchen is complemented by dining room’s opulent setting. Earth-toned walls, marble details and rounded edges contribute to the discreetly sensual feel of the place. Going against the hushed kitchen atmosphere that has long defined high-end establishments is a cooking and prep area that’s carefully located at the center of the restaurant. There are no barriers between the dining and cooking spaces, a detail that evokes an informal vibe that still manages to stay clear of being too playful.
The dinner is served as a seven-course tasting menu (B7,900), with each course offering two choices. Chef Vincent’s signature dishes during his heyday at Caprice make an appearance at his new domain. There’s the Crab Tiramisu, a perfectly balanced dish that carefully layers crab, tandoori-marinated fruit and mascarpone cream together. In another dish, earthy morel mushrooms nicely contrasts with a refreshing sesame seed-sprinkled green pea emulsion. For a heavier starter, there’s a seared foie gras that’s served with a covering of citrus fruits and a soup of carrot purée, a combination that gives a lighter mouthfeel and texture to the dish.
The fish course is the highlight of the menu—a seabass that’s moist and perfectly cooked, served with a crunchy chorizo crust and a squid bouillon that balances out the whole concoction. Another main, the Challan duck, comes with its skin crispy and its meat juicy. This one is is served simply with beetroots and potato gnocchi.
The whole experience is elevated by the exceptional wine pairing put together by New Zealand-born sommelier Richard King (for example, 2016 Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay with the sea bass and five-year Shaoxing yellow wine with the morel dish).
Offering fine-dining perfection at every turn, Chef’s Table is undoubtedly a contender for a Michelin star—or perhaps even three.