Gaeng Pa Sriyan

Deep in the leafy residential pocket of Dusit, near the old Sriyan Market, this institution specialises in gaeng pa, or jungle curry, made the traditional way with no coconut milk. What you get instead is a searing, herbaceous broth loaded with wild ginger, fresh green peppercorns, bird's eye chillies, eggplant and holy basil. 

It is hot in a way that feels architectural rather than simply aggressive; the heat is part of the dish's logic. Wild boar is the classic order, though chicken and snakehead fish work beautifully too. The mild eggplant salad with minced pork and boiled egg is the sanity plate, so order it and alternate. Finish with house-made durian ice cream over sweet sticky rice, which lands like a reward for surviving.

Dishes to order: Gaeng pa (jungle curry) with wild boar, eggplant salad, durian ice cream.

Price range: B100-250

954/2 Thanon Nakhon Chai Si, Dusit. Open Mon-Sat 10am-9pm