GOAT

One of our ‘Greatest of All Time’ picks – and, conveniently, a nod to the owner’s Chinese zodiac year – GOAT serves what it calls offbeat Thai-Chinese cuisine. Chef Tan-Parkorn Kosiyapong names each dish after the Thai province where its ingredients originated, so the tasting menu unfolds less like a set list than a road trip: Khao Yai, Chiang Rai, Saraburi. Everything is sourced within Thailand, ensuring the ‘offbeat’ never comes at the expense of the ‘Thai’. Fermentation runs through the menu and happens as visibly as the cooking itself, in an open kitchen beneath a Sino-Portuguese-style ceiling on Ekamai 10. 

GOAT, 12 Soi Ekkamai 10 Yaek 2, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok.