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Karmakarmet’s take on Asian-inspired fine-dining fare
When it comes to unique fine-dining experiences, Karmakamet Conveyance does it like no one else. It goes beyond diners’ expectations by consistently offering bold, conceptual experiences created by Jutamas “Som” Theantae, the iron lady chef who never conforms to traditions and only plays by her own rules to present traditonal Asian fare with a twist.
Chef Som continues to shock and awe with a new set menu called Expedition. Similar to her previous Appreciation menu, this freshly launched set relies on a show-not-tell schtick wherein diners are entirely (and amusingly) uninformed of what they are about to eat, and instead left to form their own understanding of what lies in front of them.
At first, the idea of Expedition repeating the same gimmick was a bit of a concern. Can it top the previous course menu or will it pose a dead end for Chef Som? We are happy to say that it does and it won’t.
The set comprises ten courses and, from start to finish, we grappled with the mystery of what lay in front of us. It truly was great fun trying to figure out the ingredients of each dish with the other diners at the table.
Starting off Expedition is a weird-looking cherry that we were eager to pop, a sort of an amuse bouche that made us want to continue on our exotic culinary journey. Several follow-ups play with Asian sensibilities, from Chinese, to Indian, to Thai, and each renders a wild rollercoaster ride of taste. But some dishes were very Western. The fifth course, for instance, is a bread ball stuffed with ham and European cheese, inspired by Chef Som’s memories of Paris.
More surprises are in store towards the end. Just when you think that you’d already eaten your main course, then something bigger and bolder comes along, like how a big chunk of fresh fish with silky-smooth sauce is followed by a noodle dish with familiar Thai and Chinese street food favorites. Between these two mains is a shot of “miracle water”, which Chef Som hints takes around four decades to blend—expect to get blown away by that.
Karmakamet Conveyance scored a triumph with the Appreciation menu and we can say the same thing about Expedition. While the ten-course menu may not be a groundbreakingly cutting-edge representation of the fine-dining experience at the restaurant, it is further indication of Chef Som’s ability to balance food, art and philosophy without making a meal feel pretentious and inaccessible. Instead, it is that rare sort of experience that allows you to be in charge of your own thoughts and feelings while entertaining your hunger. What could possibly be better than this?
Discover "true freedom without shape and form" with the Expedition menu (B2,490++) from now. Reservations can be made via Karmakamet Conveyance’s website.
Soi Sukhumvit 49
|Opening hours:||Open daily 18:00-23:00|