Northern Thai restaurant, Eats Payao, captivated devotees with boldly flavored home-style dishes inspired by recipes from owner Phoungkhae Koh’s family. Hearty offerings such as khao soi (northern-style curry noodles) and gaeng hang lay (pork belly curry) were served within a cheery orangecolored converted house in Yen Akart. That restaurant, while welcoming in both service and ambiance, sometimes had to turn away customers due to a lack of space. Now, space is no longer an issue as the restaurant has relocated, yet again ( it’s the fifth time they’ve moved), to more expansive digs within the Tivoli hotel in Soi Sribumphen.
This new Eats Payao, now called Kin, has a more grown-up feel. The bright citrus tones and lush fern plants are gone, replaced by dim lighting, waxy flower arrangements and proper, upholstered seats. Paper umbrellas indigenous to Northern Thailand hang upside down from the ceiling, their red color a nod to the restaurant’s bid for sophistication.
That you can savor Eats Payao’s all-time favorites is one thing that hasn’t changed. The khao soi (start from B160) remains well-executed, intensely flavored but not too creamy as others we have encountered in the city. Likewise, the gaeng hang lay (B230) is still a crowd pleaser, tempting diners with tender deep-fried pork belly chunks in a thick and salty orangey curry soup.
The menu pits these traditional dishes alongside modernized northern Thai fare. A salad of wild vegetables (B230), featuring the greens of various textures, is dressed with pla raa (fermented fish sauce)-fueled dressing, while tuna tartare (B280) takes on northern flavors courtesy of makwaen (a pepper from Northern Thailand).
Kin also serves a number of Singaporean staples cooked by Phoungkhae’s Singaporean husband, Gav Koh like the famous bak kut teh and nasi lemak. Chef’s table dinners are also held each month and features modern northern fare whipped up by Phoungkhae’s culinary-trained brother.
