When it comes to Japanese fare in Bangkok, there’s so much to choose from, from casual mall eateries to swanky omakase joints. But establishments that promise mind-blowing cuisine on a more progressive front are quite rare.
But we can thank Jeff Ramsey for filling up the gap with Kintsugi, the upscale Japanese restaurant at The Athenee. Opened in 2019, the restaurant has consistently appeased dining connoisseurs with modern dishes that break the boundaries of traditional Japanese cooking.
The Japanese-American chef takes inspiration from the art of kintsugi, wherein gold is used to give a new lease on life to broken ceramics. In similar fashion, Ramsey has no intention of “fixing” kaiseki cuisine; rather, he wishes to reinterpret it by incorporating his unique vision into ancient culinary traditions.
The acclaimed chef’s deep understanding of Japanese ingredients, combined with his creative vision, guarantee a memorable dining experience. And you can see this, once again, in Ramsey’s latest kaiseki offering. The Kin tasting menu (B3,500++) comprises 10 small courses that each encapsulates a fusion of Japanese authenticity and western tweaks.
To kick off the meal, the creative chef serves Sashimi Spring Rolls, a moreish dish that stuffs tender fresh fish into a crispy roll. Caramelized Ankimo follows, an interesting dish that pairs perfectly cooked fish liver with ponzu sauce. The third course is steamed egg and Alaskan King crab steamed egg with subtle hints of truffle oil.
But the highlight of the multi-course meal is Kin Kat, a foie gras ice cream that references the popular chocolate wafer snack. Two monaka wafers sandwich a soft cream made with premium duck liver.
The meal also includes uni gohan with snow crab meat, grilled Australian MB9 Wagyu, and clam miso soup.
